Today as it was raining quite alot over the Lakes, Graham and I headed over to Kendal wall for a training session. After getting totally pumped the weather cleared so we packed up our gear and headed to Castle or of Triermain, Thirlmere. Graham wanted to lead Gazebo (HVS 5a) (a route he had seconded a while back). He ran it out in one pitch as I had led both pitches before. I then led up an 'E1', it felt a bit more E2 5c but it wasnt in our guidebook so I dont know which route it was...
For the last 5 days I have been showing Gordon what Lake district climbing is all about! Lots of wet rock! He wanted to improve his climbing technique, get some more milage on rock and learn some more ropework skills. Day 1 was extreamly wet but we went out and climbed on Brown Slabs (D). We then went and climbed a very wet Little Chamonix (VD) before escaping to do some gear shopping at Needle Sports.
Day two and three we spent at Kendal Climbing wall. Working on technique, strength and improvised rescue techniques. On day 3 it finally stopped raining at 4pm so we shot off to Castle Rock at Thirlmere and climbed Via Media (S) and Zig Zag (VS 4b). It turned out there had been a major rock/turf fall at the top of pitch 3. The route could do with a clean now.
Day 4 we went down to Raven Crag in Langdale and climbed Evening wall (S) and then Bilberry Buttress (VS 4c) as it was fair weather and we didnt want to spend another day indoors.
Day 5 Gordon had a train to catch so we headed to Borrowdale again and headed up to Black Crag. We climbed the classic Troutdale Pinnacle (S) which is a must do route for every climber visiting Black Crag. We then shot over to Shepards as Gordon wanted to know what his limit was. I led up Kransic Crack Direct (HVS 5a), Gordon followed up but popping off a couple of times, he did get to the top though.
For the last 5 days I have been in North Wales staying at Plas y Brenin. I was undergoing my Mountaineering Instructor Assesment, which I passed :-) The first day was personal climbing, we went to Tremadog. Jason climbed One Step in the Clouds (VS 4c), I then led up Scratch Arete (HVS 5a). Second day was Improvised rescues again at Tremadog. I led up The Brothers Direct finish (E1 5b) whilst been given lots of scenarios which I had to solve. Mo led up Grim Wall (VS) and I was acting as casualty. Day 3 I took 2 clients out climbing at Clogwyn yr Oen, we did a VD. It was the worst weather of the week, constant rain! Day 4 was scrambling in the Ogwen Valley up and around Idwal Slabs. Day 5 was the navigation test which was done out the back of Plas y Brenin. An enjoyable week despite the horrible weather!
Today I headed up to Buckston Pass with Zac for a few climbs. Neither of us had been here before and it turned out to hold some good routes. We started on Sinister Grooves (VS 4c) which was great and then we climbed Cleopatra (HVS 5a). Also an excellent route. One of the routes had also seen an winter ascent?! Nice short walk in! We then spent the rest of the day doing some short roping and checking out some of the old quarries, quite a good place to explore. I forgot my camera again but I think Zac will have some sweet photos up soon.
Today I met up with Ian who had driven up from Lancaster with a couple of mate's. The plan was to get Ian more familiar with multi-pitch climbing as he only climbs at single pitch crags. He also really want to climb Troutdale Pinnacle (S) so we did. Each pitch gave us a good opportunity to talk about belays, rope work skills and stance management. Ian built his own belays all the way up the route. After topping out we went and climbed Troutdale Pinnacle Super Direct (HVS 5a). I led him up all the pitches except the last where Ian took the rack and shot up building a textbook belay at the top. Remember Ian, practice those 'clover hitches!' ;-)
Today I headed up to Langdales with Barry to check out White Ghyll, a crag I haven't visited. It was extremely windy up there with only one other team out on Haste Not, they took ages as the second couldn't commit to the traverse. We climbed the Gordion Knot (VS 4c). I led all pitches as Barry hasn't climbed trad for many years, in fact he's only been bouldering and climbing indoors. We then went and climbed Chimney Variant (E1 5b) which was a wicked little route, the second pitch is superb, with a super exposed traverse then a tough pull up a groove, quite sustained, Barry did very well.
Well not quite but Dan and Graham were out with me today. Aim of today was to do some scrambling, rock climbing, navigation, flora and fauna identification and get a sun tan. Everything got ticked off today. We headed into Landgale and up to Stickle Tarn where I led them both up Harrison Stickle East Ridge (grade 1). We then walked over to Pike of Stickle and I led them down the West Ridge (grade 2/3). From here we traversed around the face of PofS and climbed up the South face, probably around VD. After topping out I gave Graham and Dan some navigation challenges and we discussed many of the plants and flowers we were seeing around us. Another hot day after a wet night. We then headed to Kendal Climbing wall for some rescue training.
I have spent the weekend ticking off the 3 highest peaks on mainland Britain. I was working for Mountains to Water who are regular organisers of the national 3 peaks challenge. We had a group of 23 challengers split between Mike, Zac Poulton and I. The weather was great, my group just got off the hill before the heavens opened on Ben Nevis, our final summit. The whole team had a thoroughly enjoyable event, some even said they would do it again...