Having moved to the Alps and lockdowns becoming a popular decision and flight restrictions were in full force, I sourced alternative income and tried to get into the mountains as much as I could. The ski lifts were closed so everywhere we went we had to walk, skin and ski. The mountains were quiet and some of the ice climbing was in amazing condition. We took mini breaks sport climbing and ice climbing and many day trip skiing in between work stints. The great part of lift closure is that we are forced to seek out new areas and put the vertical meters in ourselves.

With the global pandemic taking hold across the world we have all taken the opportunity to discover aspects of our lives which we may give little or no attention. Lockdown’s aplenty have meant our ‘normal’ has been disrupted, sometimes for good and sometime for a depressing out look.

My previous post was in March as I took the opportunity to branch away from the confinement of my computer and enjoy the lockdown restrictions as well as I could. With a few months off work I was still eager to get out into the hills, climb and explore so when the ‘green lights’ were given we did exactly that. I think I recreated my child hood! For two months we lived quietly and simply, volunteered in the village, bike rides and swimming. The most painful task was cancelling and refunding all the upcoming booked work. Fortunately as the pandemic too its toll, restrictions were lifted and I was able to return to work where I made use of the local hills and crags. I had guided trips into the Cairngorm, Ben Nevis, the North West Highlands and the Cairngorms. Several guests we concerned about their fitness from the break they have had, however slowly and surely, confidence grew and everyone forgets about their fitness worries. They are not alone, I’m sure we have all been concerned about our fitness but rest assured, we can still have really good day in the mountains whatever fitness you may be. We just maybe have to build back up to that ‘big’ objective.

My alpine summer was dramatically ‘thinned out’ as many were unable to travel so I had only 2 weeks of very nice work. Firstly I climbed with the every enthusiastic Alan Watson who specifically wished to rock climb with only short approaches. Being based in Chamonix we climbed so many amazing routes up to 6a standard. These were mostly bolted routes but we have agreed that we will come back for more trad route this coming summer. Following on from Alan I teamed up with Anthony. Also very keen and very objectively driven by the Matterhorn. We had the hut booked and embarked on our training climbs in the Aiguille Rouge above Chamonix and one night from the Torino hut traversing some of the granite ridges. All perfect preparation for the Matterhorn however it was looking clear that the Matterhorn may be a little ambitious for Anthony on this trip. We would need perfect conditions. As Anthony was so driven by this mountain, maybe a little too driven, we pressed on and unfortunately we didn’t have the perfect conditions. We made it too the Solvay hut but had to return just below the shoulder due too high winds and Anthony’s condition deteriorating. The only option was to turn back. I believe this was a very eye opening experience for Anthony and the mountain told him a lot about himself despite his guide telling him before hand.

After these 3 weeks in the Alps I returned back to Scotland to a reduced work load however I guided and climbed personally on Isle of Skye, Isle of Lewis and Harris, the Cairngorms and on the East coast sea cliffs. Again the confinements of Covid started to take hold which brought more cancellations and the unknowns of the future but fortunately we had the task of moving to the Alps to keep us occupied.

Moving to the Alps in November was fairly stressful, moving to France in the middle of the pandemic and on the eve of Brexit caused a major headache (and still is) but now we are settled here. Regretfully none of my clients have been able to travel to the Alps so I have been working at St Georges International School leading the holiday camps. The boarding students who cannot return home because of Covid spend their holidays doing a whole host of activities such as skiing, ice skating, paragliding, go-carting, rock climbing, sledding to name a few. A different pace of life but great to share these experiences with young people and see them develop.

Our new home

I have a very busy summer booked and I really hope we can all enjoy it together.

Stay safe and see you all soon!

“Hard Rock is the best of British Climbing”

This evolution is the 4th edition on the Hard Rock series. An outstanding collection of British rock climbs that Ken Wilson has deemed as an important library of routes. The collection spawned from when the first edition was published in 1974, over 5 decades of evolution.  If you are not familiar with the previous editions then you will be informed in the opening pages as to where the vision and fantasy came from. 

How many have you climbed?

The Hard Rock ‘ticking’ bonanza had been created, now many rock climbers are aspiring to tick ‘the list of all lists’ . This is an obtainable list for many but a dream to many more. Little do many know, a ‘tick list’ was not Ken’s vision, this book was a “call to action”, an opportunity to open up a catalogue of some world class climbing on our very small island.  For this reason, you will see that some changes have been made to the original lists (which will excite the list-tickers), as some routes have fallen down and thirteen new routes have been added.  For the avid ‘ticker’, this new edition will bring some new inspiration, whether it is reading about a route you haven't done or sharing the experience of the ones you have.

Possibly my favourite location for a rock trip

Captivating authors and photographers share their experiences on the Hard Rock routes.  A list of names which promise an absorbing story and many of my hero’s share their tales in their well known style.  The likes of Martin Moran, Hamish MacInnes, Jimmy Marshall, Ken Wilson, Nick Estcourt, Jim Perrin, Peter Crew and many others will carry you through the routes with enough detail and excitement to spark the planning juices.  To be honest, the updated photography will do just that. When can I next go to South-west England? Can I do all the remaining routes in one trip?  Will I ever complete the list? I'm sure the book will spark these same thoughts when you are able to get a copy.  

One of my favoured authors, my mentor and friend. A treasured piece.

A brilliant book which I will keep dipping into, maybe one day I will complete the list.

Other important reading from the late Ken Wilson

Classic Rock

Extreme Rock

Cold Climbs

For your lock down reading, head to www.v-publishing.co.uk

With COVID-19 taking quite a hold across Asia and into Europe, my first ski touring trip in the Alps was starting to look doubtful. We were due to go to the Queyras, an area we hadn’t been to before. I spent weeks planning this trip but the plan was suddenly slipping through our fingers. I was in the Lake District, visiting family before jumping on the ferry for 7 weeks of ski touring. From Cumbria, I decided to make the call that we wouldn’t go to the Alps. I proposed a week of skiing in the Highlands. Given that 2 members of the 4 strong team had already dropped out, they were happy to rejoin for a Scottish adventure.

So after lots of cancellations, re-booking of accomodation and arriving in Scotland, we donned our ski’s and headed out in 50mph winds to kick start our Scottish ski week. We agreed to be flexible with activities and fortunately everyone was keen for a little mountaineering as well as skiing.

Our first day we went into the Cairngorm’s and skied Lurcher’s Gully which was a very fitting objective due to the weather conditions. No-one saw the benefit in prolonging the day.

As the weather continued to blow, we opted for the East Ridge of Beinn Choraine. A good option in the strong westerlies and very suitable for the group as some do no mountaineering or have lapsed for 20 years. We divided into two rope teams and made a fun ascent before hitting the whiteout which required careful navigation to get back down. It was a tough days for the hardened skier, they may be converted…or maybe not!

Finally we were blessed with some slightly more settled weather and we did the Corries loop skirting around all the northern corries and around the south side of Cairngorm. A windy day but rewarding as we pushed through some tough gusts and icey traverses.

The last day was surely the best, great weather and a superb journey on to Breariach. A good Munro to bag on ski’s. A fun and challenging consolation to skiing in the Alps but we are already looking forward to doing the trip next year. Thanks for a great week team! Working for Frost Guiding.

7th March 2020

Nope, it wasn’t me this time. And neither of these two achievements had my involvement other than encouragement but they were the successes of the winter for Lou Reynolds (my girlfriend).

She worked tirelessly this winter to get herself in shape for the British Mountain Guides (BMG) Winter Test. I’m really pleased for her. An 6 day undertaking where the assessors push your capabilities as far as they can go to prepare you for a lifetime of guiding and the next steps of the Mountain Guide training process. This is a pass, defer or fail test. Lou and Phil Stevens were the only two (out of 5) who received passes on the results day, the remaining 3 had to defer and resit a day which they have all done now.

The 6 day assessment can vary from one year to the next, some years have brilliant conditions, some have terrible. This is the nature of Scottish winter. We prepare for any conditions and perform in whatever we are thrown on the assessment week. Lou and her team had very good conditions, not necessarily easy, but there were good mountaineering options, the mixed climbing options were plentiful and the ice climbing in the North-West highlands accommodated several teams. (Just don’t ask about what time they started!).

The assessment starts with a 2 day expedition. A snow hole to sleep in (or at east rest for a few of hours). During these two days, the candidates carry expedition rucksacks and tackle gullies and ridges in the day and navigation by night. They take turns safeguarding each other, making safe decisions and leading the group into the heart of the mountains. It feels like a hard two days especially if the weather is working against you as Lou and her team experienced. It is winter after all and fortunately they were all well versed at coping in the winter mountains.

After the expedition, the following two days are seen as ‘personal climbing days’. Demonstrate that you can climb at the specific level of V,6. One day on ice, one day on mixed. Lou climbed in the Cairngorm’s on Aladdin’s buttress for her mixed day and then climbed Poachers Fall on Liathach for her ice day. A long way to go from Glenmore Lodge so really adds to the tiredness!

After 2 days of climbing with your assessor and other candidates, you are then presented with mock students the following morning. These two days are the closest you will get to real life guiding work so they need to be done really well. It is a big ask after 4 big days already. The best way to prepare for all of this? Do lots and lots of winter climbing, mountaineering with a whole range of abilities. Be super mountain fit. The client days can be tough as you need to have good progression of skills and keep moving through the mountains. The days must be tailored and adapted to suit the client (who you know nothing about until the morning) and must flow and fill the allocated time. Its no good if you get back 2 hours before finish time when you could have done 4 more pitches of climbing on a nice sunny day! Lou had two brilliant days with her mock student finishing on Lurchers crag climbing brilliant ice in the sunshine.

So a brilliant effort by Lou, she worked really hard and passed with flying colours in my opinion. It was a joyful moment when she was told that she had passed. She deserved the following week of rest to make up for such a busy winter. Well done!

But it didn’t end there.

Just before the lock down while I was working (next blog post), Lou and our friend Pete Herd snuck onto Skye and completed a full winter traverse in 10 hours from summit to summit. A brilliant effort by two capable mountaineers and probably the best finale one could have to their Scottish winter season. The grandest mountaineering objective in Scotland. So what a season for Lou, a very memorable one.

February 23rd 2020

I always look forward to the ice climbing trips in Norway and this season was no exception. I knew it wasn’t going to be the ‘best’ season, because like Scotland, it had been quite warm and snowy. So not the best recipe for building great ice conditions. However, we knew of good reliable places and we explored some new venues and were able to climb plenty of routes.

I was out for two weeks and I just managed to land before Storm Ciara did her worst. Unfortunately, none of the guest’s made it and they all experienced diversions, delays, cancelled flights and some didn’t even make it. After alot of faffing at the airports, we regrouped the next day and we went climbing. I was climbing with regular guest Sean who has never climbed ice cascade so for him to climb WI5 on his first trip is flipping brilliant!

The second week I was climbing with Katya and David, both of whom I was climbing with last year, and we got stuck into all sorts of WI4 and WI5 routes. It was a little tricky this week as conditions were poor and it went pretty warm. We had to go to the climbing wall one day and then for the last 3 days of climbing we ended up in Hemsedal, a popular ice climbing destination.

As always, I’m already looking forward to next year where we are going to revamp the courses. Here’s hoping to a brilliant season.

February started with a couple of foul days, the sort of days I wanted to sit on my hands and give the drying room some respite. Fortunately the foul weather gave way to some reasonable icey conditions on Ben Nevis.

I have had many days arranged with Alan this season but for one reason or another we haven’t been able to climb in good conditions. Fortunately we managed to get a good route in on Ben Nevis. Our first plan was Comb Gully (IV,4), the Cold Climb classic but we were pipped at the post by one climber and his mate. Fortunately there is plenty of good climbing in the vicinity so we went and climbed Comb Gully Buttress which is a really good value grade IV,4 (some say IV,5). It’s a great route as it has more interesting climbing than Comb Gully depending on the build up, but certainly for us, we had 4 good pitches of climbing and an easy snow ramp pitch.

The next two days I was out with Andy. We have an upcoming alpine trip in the summer so we were keen to get some good routes done while in Scotland. First up was the East face of Aonach Mor, which wasn’t the best conditions to be honest. We climbed (most of) White Shark (IV,4), abseiled off then climbed Right Twin (II) which was in very bad conditions. We both certainly had wide eyes after today.

Fortunately our day on Ben Nevis gave much nicer ice and far nicer weather. I suggested an early start so we could get to a route first but also climb some other routes as well. We started off with Green Gully (IV,4) which was in sub-optimal conditions. The ice was nice to climb but protection was mostly a joke, with the odd good nut here and there. We topped out very quickly, descended number 3 gully and made our way over to Central Gully (III,4) on Creag Coire na Ciste. We found much nicer ice here where I was able to place all my screws! As it was so good, we then climbed Central Gully Right Hand (IV,4). An abseil can be set up to get back down to the start ad then retrieved when you climb back up to the top. A nice finish into blue skies and a nice walk down Number 4 gully to see where others were climbing. Teams were all over the mountain, we were very glad to get an early start.

Sitting here writing about all the things I have done since my last post may well seem like quite a lot. And it is. But it still seems that the winter here in Scotland hasn’t really built a great deal of momentum. We’re currently undergoing a thaw which has pretty much completely stripped the Cairngorms of its snow but hopefully it will help build ice on Ben Nevis.

As November and December are typically quiet times of the year, we make the most of going climbing in the mountains if they are cold, hostile and snowy. I climbed some great routes with Murdoch and fortunately the weather wasn’t hostile, it was just cold. Over a couple of days we climbed Houdini (VI,7)*** and Overseer Direct/Hoarmaster (VI,6) combo giving two fairly contrasting days. Good no the less and great to use the ice axes again.

As per this season, a thaw was close behind. The cold weather came back and I had a day with Shaun and Stephen, introducing them to the winter mountains. Crampon training, ice axing and we made an ascent up the Fiacaille ridge as the days finale. This is their first steps in climbing Mont Blanc with me in two years time!

Another thaw hit, so my next work day was on Curved Ridge with Alan. We wanted to maximise time spent on technical ground, so we also went up the Crowberry Tower. And rather then topping out on the summit to the strong winds, we opted to scramble down Curved Ridge, which is always good fun and good to practice. The thew stayed around for a while and it was another week until I went back out.

Coming home from the Lake District, Lou and I decided to climb on Lochnagar. I had never been here so it was nice to check it out. We slept in the van and woke to 3 inches of snow. We waded in and opted for a route on the Cathedral called Sepulchre (V,6)**. I wasn’t too convinced about the grade and whether we were off route or it was a high gravity day, I felt there wasn’t much change from VI,7! With all the snow, a long walk in and a buried route, we had a long day. Navigating off in the dark whilst contending with the blowing snow. It was one of those days where your glad you made the effort and glad to be back in front of the fire.

Unfortunately Alan has been timing his days badly and again he was booked in for some unsavoury weather. We opted for an easy and safe option of the Zig-Zags in Glencoe which was pleasant and very snowy.

For Christmas, Lou and I headed to Chamonix for some skiing and probably too much eating. The skiing was really good as we had a dump of snow as we arrived and the ski resorts we not too busy.

After a nice little break I was back into work, this time working for Frost guiding with Andrew and Jane. These guys were great fun to be out with, in a previous life they had both done a fair share of winter climbing but it has lapsed for 20 years. The weekend was all about re-sparking the fire and training them back up so they can be self-sufficient again. They have set themselves a goal of climbing the Matterhorn too, so we had a busy weekend of up-skilling. Unfortunately we had very poor conditions so we climbed a snow gully on day one and a ridge on day 2.

Scotlad has been good, but it has also been better but fortunately a two week trip back to Chamonix meant some good weather and good skiing. Despite it not snowing for 3 weeks, I was able to find 5 days of brilliant skiing with Carol and Ewen. If you are an avid fan, you will remember I was out with them last year for 3 days. We skied all around the Chamonix valley, touring away from the pistes and finding un-tracked or chalky snow.

Beyond good and evil - Has to be, to date, my in my top 3 favourite Alpine route I have climbed. One other being the North Face of the Eiger and the other being the North Face of the Dru. I was buzzing with excitement when I heard that this was in condition but I was also slightly gutted that I had travelled out with only my ski gear. I asked, borrowed and begged climbing gear off my friends, arrange to climb with Ross Hewitt and we went for it. We left the bivi hut at 3.45am, ensuring we were on the route first. it was 11 pitches of heaven. Continuously interesting, hard and bold ice. Everything the the route had lived up to with a remarkable history and reputation. We were so pleased to get this route in the bag and if i didn’t climb anything else this winter, Beyond Good and Evil (ED3) would make up for it.

Back in Scotland after a few days skiing, it was back to work and I was out with Sean for a few days. We had a day in the Cairngorms doing a coupe of the classic lines as Sean’s introducing to the east coast climbing. We then Went and climbed North East Buttress on Ben Nevis which is Sean’s 4th ridge with me. Plans are in the pipeline to finish the 5th ridge on Ben Nevis, Observatory Ridge.

The final day out from this chapter was yesterday. A day off coincided with brilliant, hard mixed climbing conditions. The day before, I went into the Cairngorms to solo some routes and clocked that it was in brilliant condition. I was teamed up with Steve Holmes, a mate from over in Fort William. I have wanted to do Nocando Crack (VII(I),8) for quite a while but it becomes very icey, very quickly. Making for a very icey and bold excursion. Fortunately we were able to place gear, ram cams in cracks and made very swift progress up this 3 pitched grade 8. As we left the crag, the thaw came, it rained and hasn’t stopped. Winter is certainly on hold for 48 hours. Time to rest recuperate and plan the next few trips!

Now see if you can link the images below to the story.