Are you ready for it? Crampons checked, ice axes sharpened, gloves dug out! I had barely landed from America and the snow was on the way. Like most cases early season, the winter conditions in Scotland come and go. I managed to grab 3 days of good climbing before the thaw arrived. So a good start to the season.

First up was Hobgoblin (IV,7) on Number 3 Gully Buttress on Ben Nevis with Tim Oliver. With the freezing level at about 950m, we had to go to a cliff which was high and fortunately it was cold and covered in snow. We did 4 brilliant pitches of early season mixed climbing to bring us onto the summit of Ben Nevis.

The next day, Mar Chadwick and I walked into the Grey Corries, Stob coire an Laoigh and climbed Talliballen (V,6) which is a brilliant route. I have climbed this before but many years ago so it was nice to reacquaint with it.

As conditions were so good, I stashed the climbing kit, and I came in the following day with Lou Reynolds. We opted for a route called New Labour (V,6) which gave one meaty pitch in the middle and some really good climbing. This crag sits at 1000m and is a good option when it has been cold for some time. It is very dependant on frozen turf so must be in good condition to climb here.

With a reasonable amount of down time between summer and winter, we decided to take 3 weeks in America to enjoy some of the brilliant rock climbing. Our plan was to share our time between Colorado and as it got cooler, head to the desert so sandstone climbing.

The desert was the highlight of the trip, this diverse and in many respects, hostile area is home to a wealth of climbing, culture and history. A beautiful place to stay, camp, socialise and relax after a good days climbing. We mostly focused our attention to the single pitch cliffs and difficult crack climbs but some days we explored the Towers, the canyons and the starlit nights.

I finally have made it back to Scotland and at last I can put my feet up for a few hours! (The Scottish weather is good for something!).

It has been a great season in the Alps, a little warm and as a result some permafrost is melting away, glaciers are retreating and some parts of the mountains are falling down. So this season was mostly about careful route choice. During the first heatwave, I played it safe and focused on the mid mountain routes which proved to be a good idea.

I’m not really sure how to sum up 3 months with out turning this into a big list of routes etc.

After the Eiger prep week with the two Andrews (They didn’t summit the Eiger due to weather), I took a week off and had a lovely time climbing around Chamonix with Lou. She was keen so a mini break from Wales where she is preparing for her first Guides exam.

After Lou jumped on the plane, I went to meet my guest for the coming week. I was working for High Mountain Guides with one guest. It was aimed as a teaching week for up to a group of 3, unfortunately someone dropped out so we were slightly limited to what we can do. A trip to the Albert Premier Hut followed by the Arete du Table (AD) started proceedings and the remainder of the week was to develop the client to be self sufficient in the mountains. Which is nice for me, as I get to be led around the mountains for several days!

After this week, I was over to Switzerland to work for Frost Guiding . I did a total of 4 weeks working with various guests and racking up some good vertical meters. With several ascents of the Matterhorn, Eiger, Zinal Rothorn, Wiessmies, Lagginhorn to name a few. It really is brilliant in Switzerland. The mountains are amazing, chocolate is exceptional and the conditions were very good too.

My final week I was working for Jagged Globe on a Chamonix Climbing course. This was brilliant fun and a great finale to the season. Every day we sought out a cool route or two and over the 6 days we only did one route I have done before, the Cosmiques Arete. Everything else I had saved for guiding days and they didn’t disappoint. Beaming smiles all round at the end of this week. Then I jumped in the van and drove to North Wales…

On the 7th July I started an Eiger Prep week for the two Andrews whilst working for Frost Guiding. This was to be the third attempt for Andrew on the Mittellegi Ridge of the EIger so I wanted to make sure they were fighting fit, acclimated and moving well over mixed terrain. With 6 days to play with, I wanted to mix things up as much as possible, a week of fantastic climbing and cross-training.

So on our first day we dodged the thunderstorms and made a quick ascent of the Jegihorn via Alpendurst. En exercise in rock climbing in big boots which got the guys tuned in to precise climbing. Day 2 and 3 we made our way into the Vignettes Hut for an ascent of L’Eveque (The Bishop). A brilliant AD ridge with plenty of interesting glacier to negotiate. Another brilliant peak below 4000m.

Days 4 - 6 we based ourselves at the Wiessmies hutte, brilliant location, great staff and really good food. We climbed the South Ridge of the Lagginhorn, the Fletchorn and the Jegihorn Via Ferrata.

So a satisfying week with plenty of ground covered to prep for the EIger. I said my farewells and the weather looked promising for their ascent in a few days time. Unfortunately, the weather did turn and they had to go for plan B. Maybe next time. Sometimes it doesn’t always work out.

This years 14 day Alpine Adventure was based from Saas Fee. Allowing us access to a great deal of mountains, ridges and rock climbing. We had valley based accomodation and made use of lift and mountain huts to provide a combination of day hits as well as multi-day trips.

The weather was very good to us which meant we could use the rest days evenly so after 3 or 4 days of climbing, we were able to put our feet up and enjoy the hospitality of Saas Fee and go sightseeing.

This is what we managed to climb

Day 1 - Alpendurst 4c- 14 pitch Rock climb on the Jegihorn, day hit.

Day 2 - Brandegrabe 5b - 5 Pitch rock climb above Saas Almagell

Day 3 - Allalinhorn 4027m - in poor weather

Rest day

Day 4 - Walked to Almageller Hut and climbed traversed the Dri Hornli (AD)

Day 5 - Traversed the Weissmies 4017m SE Ridge (PD)

Day 6 - South Ridge Lagginhorn 4010m (AD)

Rest day

Day 7 - Drove to the beautiful Arolla Valley and walked to Caban Tsa (beautiful hut)

Day 8 - Climbed West Ridge of Dent Du Tsallion (AD)

Rest day

Day 9 - Walked to Weissmies Hut and did the Jegihorn Via Ferrata

Day 10 - Climbed the Grande Gendarme and traversed the Jegigrat (D)

Day 11 - Climbed Panorama 5a - 12 pitch rock route on the Jegihorn and then had beers and rosti in the hut.

Alan was hungry for another attempt. Last year we did a one day traverse, at 71 years old, is mind boggling for many to even comprehend! This year at 72 Alan wanted to go again. Last year we missed out a couple of sections to save a little bit of time or fatigue got in the way. Last year we missed out the brilliant scramble on An Stac, we missed out Collies Ledge, Bidean Druim nan Ramh and Am Basteir. We also bivied at Sgurr nan Eag and summited Gars Bheinn the evening before. So this time we bivied on Gars Bheinn and started our day from there.

At 3.50am we left the bivi and set on our way, the TD gap was bone dry and went with ease, we went along Collies (hart’s) ledge as we missed this last time and made a quick ascent of An Stac and the In Pinn by 8am. We picked up our water stash and the rest was a blur. After climbing Am Bastier, Alan was happy (and shattered) so we didn’t go up Sgurr nan Gillean (we did last year) and made our way down arriving at the Slig at 5.30. It’s amazing what one can do in their 70’s, I hope I will be able to do the same!

Well some pretty amazing weather this last wee while. Scotland, as well as most of the UK has been covered in sunshine and dry rock. Perfect! Usually I’m flat out on Skye working but this year, I fancied a change. I’ll have some time off, to enjoy the good weather (I know, very selfish of me!).

Finally sat down, with the rain falling outside and I finally get too have a rest day. Sometimes the good weather is just too much!

Day 1 : Lou and I went Sport Climbing at the Camel

Day 2: we went to DIabeag, ticked all the 2 0r 3 star E2’s on the peninsula crag. Amazing rock there, well worth the walk! But watch out for ticks!

Day 3: We went to Creag Dubh, it would be rude not too, it’s on our door step.

Day 4: I met up with Kenny and Mikey B, we went sport climbing at Tunnel Wall.

Day 5: Feeling tired now! Walked up to Garbh Beinn (2 hours) and climbed with Andy Nelson at one of the best mountain crags in Scotland

Day 6: Got the Ferry to Isle of Eigg and climbed a route called Psycho! Scary!!

Day 7: Climbed several routes of Eigg and then went fishing

Day 8: More climbing, takedown camp and ferry back to the mainland.

Day 9: Spend all day feel content and smug as its now raining outside.

It’s not something I would usually do but this year I thought I’d start rock climbing nice and early in the hope that I will be a little ‘rock fit’ before the season begins. Lou and I combined this with plenty of visits to friends and family all over the south coast and Wales.

We climbed on the south west coast, a place close to Lou’s upbringing and a place I have seldom visited. We mostly climbed but also braved the seas for some surfing which was baltic! But the weather was great!