Scottish Winter Climbing

The arrival of winter transforms Scotland’s mountains into wild and truly testing environment that draws the attention of climbers from around the world. Although the peaks themselves are modest in height, the maritime climate brings rapidly changing and very demanding conditions that provide a test for the well prepared mountaineer. Generations of climbers have learned their craft on Scotland’s winter mountains including some of the greatest names in climbing history. There is no doubt that although challenging, learning to deal with the combination of short daylight hours, changing weather conditions and widely varying climbing mediums provides a uniquely rewarding experience that draws some climbers back time and time again. Winter days out in Scotland provide perfect training for climbing in the Alps or beyond.

Gemini (VI,6) in perfect condition. Ben Nevis

Gemini (VI,6) in perfect condition. Ben Nevis

Traverse of Liathach (II), one of the Torridon Giants.

Traverse of Liathach (II), one of the Torridon Giants.

For the beginner there are snow gullies that cut deeply into the surrounding cliffs, these provide atmospheric yet simple climbs. The great ridges are also often straight forward but, spectacularly exposed, they require a cool head and careful rope work. Later in the season the steeper gullies build up thick ice and provide more demanding climbs whilst the hardest buttress climbs are a challenge for even the very best climbers. In short there is something on offer for every climber in Scotland’s winter mountains be it a long established and popular classic or an esoteric adventure far beyond the crowds.

I have personally been active in Scotland for over fifteen years, and have lived here every winter, climbing and guiding at every opportunity. Through this experience I have gained an extensive knowledge of all the major venues in the country and am exceptionally well placed to provide a comprehensive guiding and instruction service for individuals or small groups, this is completely flexible which means things can be tailored to your needs.

Learning to lead in the North West Highlands

Learning to lead in the North West Highlands

At the base of Indicator Wall (V,5). Not bad for a 70 year old!

At the base of Indicator Wall (V,5). Not bad for a 70 year old!

If you are looking for a highly experienced, friendly and energetic guide for a specific objective or for a guided climbing holiday please feel free to get in touch to discuss the options. Alternatively I am able to offer instruction in all aspects of mountaineering and winter climbing, so, if you, or a small group of friends have a desire to learn about anything from basic ice axe use to steep ice and mixed climbing techniques I can tailor a things to suit you. In reality the best itineraries often end up being a combination of guiding and coaching. This is especially true on introductory trips, I often find that a few hours practice followed by some experience on real climbs provides the most realistic and rewarding experience. Please feel free to get in touch to discuss your Scottish winter plans, I am available throughout the whole season.