Fjordland, adventure ice climbing
Norway
The deep valleys of Western Norway provide the ice climber with some of the finest and most spectacular challenges on earth. Further north than the well known areas of Rjukan and Hemsedal lie many miles of little known and sparsely populated steep sided valleys. The long, dark, cold winters reliably build huge quantities of ice and the whole ‘Fjordland’ area is transformed into a winter climber’s paradise where solitude and adventure are virtually guaranteed.
It was this rare combination of qualities, coupled with the fact that it all lies within an easy day’s travel of the UK, that drew the attention of the adventurous mountain guide Martin Moran. For around 20 years he and his dedicated group of guides and instructors led his clients on icefall climbing adventures of all types and at all standards of difficulty. After experimenting with various valley bases, Aurland was eventually settled on as the optimum location and from the luxurious cabins here hundreds of Martin’s clients were able to enjoy their climbing holidays. Over the years in excess of one hundred first ascents were made and all types of guiding and instruction took place. Some clients learned the basics or led their first ice pitches under the watchful eye of a guide or instructor, while other very experienced clients were able to enjoy long, steep and spectacular ice falls with the comfort and safety of a rope above them and a guide alongside.
Sadly, Martin Moran passed away in 2019. Some of the regular staff who worked on these unique trips are keen to carry on running them. This we hope will continue to cater for the many ‘regulars’ who attended year after year; the information provided here is mainly intended for new clients who are of course very welcome. Our aim is to retain the truly adventurous nature Martin’s unique trips offered and thus their appeal to climbers of all abilities and experience levels with an adventurous streak. Martin inspired and mentored me for over a decade. Here, Robin Thomas has written a piece about Martin and how he influenced so many guides and clients alike.
As mentioned, the valley base is a pair of luxury, fjordside cabins located in the village of Aurland. Aurlands fjord itself is a branch off the great Sognefjord, which is the longest fjord in Norway. The mountains surrounding Aurland rise on all sides to an altitude of around 1800 metres; on the slopes of these and in the gorges between them, the great icefalls form. Within ten minutes’ drive of the cabins there are low level options for climbs when conditions allow; extending the drive to half an hour one can be at an altitude of 700 metres or in another valley entirely so good ice can usually be found. Typically, the clients and staff share the cabins and the catering duties, allowing a sociable atmosphere in the evenings where the days adventures can be compared. On a normal week everyone will cook on one evening for the whole cabin, don’t be daunted by this though – easy options are available, although generally people seem to rise to the challenge and the catering standard is usually impressively high.
Climbing wise, the guides can cater for all ability and experience levels, it is best to contact us first to discuss your exact requirements. There are short simple climbs available for those just starting out who need to develop the basic techniques. There are also long and daunting climbs that are a challenge for even the most accomplished climbers, the really special advantage of this area is that there is still the opportunity to pioneer new climbs. Of course on days where new climbs are tackled the outcome is uncertain and success cannot be guaranteed, but you will experience the thrill of climbing where no-one has ever been before, unlocking the secrets of the climb and hopefully experiencing the joy of success. Many climbers climb their whole lives and never experience the great satisfaction of pioneering a new climb where all one’s skills and resolve may be called upon. Of course, if successful the party can name the climb and suggest a grade. If you are wishing to develop your own technical skills, coaching is on offer covering everything from basic crampon technique, leading of climbs, or the methods used to tackle the most demanding climbs. The week will be tailored to your requirements as best we can: we may be able to put you in touch with other clients with similar aims in order for you to share the costs, alternatively of course, one- to-one guiding is also available.
On a typical week some sort of combination of the above is usual, obviously to some extent the prevailing snow, ice and weather conditions will dictate the actual activities we can offer. The important thing is that the guides are all highly experienced, well qualified and very motivated so you will certainly get the most out of your week. The norm on these trips is to climb for five days out of six, allowing a usually very welcome rest day to be enjoyed, either relaxing in the cabins, exploring the local villages or skiing at one of the nearby resorts. The rest day is flexible and may be used to avoid a particularly bad weather day in the forecast. Despite what you might think, many of the valleys are extremely sheltered as they are so deep, often in the right place, a peaceful day of climbing can be enjoyed whilst a mile above the wind roars over the open plateau. The trips are on offer over a three week period running from mid February to mid March, this is the time that offers the best combination of ice build up and daylight hours before things become too warm in the spring. We are very keen to welcome new clients on these trips, our aim is to provide quality guiding and instruction in the vein that Martin Moran did for so many years in this beautiful and challenging region. If you have any queries please don’t hesitate to get in touch.
2020 Norway Ice trip HERE
2019 Norway Ice trip HERE
2015 Norway ice trip HERE
2014 Norway ice trip HERE
