Today Katy and I were keen to get a few routes in despite feeling a little tired after our ridge traverse over the last two days. We headed out to the neat little sea cliffs at Neist point. On arrival to the Finantial Sector, it reminded me of Fairhead but only alot smaller. Once we got on the route's it still reminded me of a mini Fairhead! We started off on Venture Capital and Power Broker (HVS 5a and E1 5b) We then went up Shocks and Stares (VS 4b) before retreating over to the Upper Crag South Sector for Katy to lead up Sonamara (VS 4c).

I have just spent the last two days on the Skye Ridge with Katy. We had fantastic weather, couldn't ask for anything better. It took us 9 hours from the car to the bivi and another 9 hours from the bivi back to the other car. All the climbing was bone dry and really great fun. We had a fantastic bivi below the 3 teeth of Sgurr Thormaid where we had front row seats of a beautiful sunset and sunrise. We summited all of the 11 munros on the ridge as well as doing all the tricky climbing sections, TD gap, Kings chimney, Bhastier Tooth etc. There are many great options for ticking off all the munros and getting a taste of mountaineering on Skye but doing it over two days is a great achievement and experience.

Today Johann and I headed up into a warm, midge free and dry Glen Nevis for some classic rock ticks. I have wanted to do Edgehog for quite a while now so we headed upto Wave Buttress to get warmed up. We started off on Bewsey Crack (HVS 5a), which is a great tricky HVS. I then went up EdgeHog (E3 5c) which was brilliant. Immaculate climbing and some nice gear where you want it! After this we headed over to Speadeagle Buttress where Johann wanted to try Slip Away (E3 6a) but unfortunately, after several attempts, couldn't break the crux. We then headed up to Blade Buttress which has a fantastic feature of rock, well worth a visit! I jumped on Sabre (E3 5c) then jumped off as I got really pumper in the overhanging finger crack. After a little rest and some cunning, I managed to work my way up and out to the top. A great route which could do with some more traffic!

Today Izzi was keen for more mountain cragging so we took a gamble and headed down into Glen Etive to the mighty slabs. On approach there were several wet streaks running down the cliff but on arrival it was clear that Spartan Slab (VS) was dry. So we headed off with me leading the first, Izzi took the second and I took the crux. Didn't even draw blood this time! I led off on the next but unfortunately we got hit by a rain shower which turned the slabs into glass. After a wee break getting wet we decided that we would just bail off while we could. If we had hung around on our ledge for an hour we might have been able to carry on after if had dries off. Still plenty of substantial wet streaks on the crag and for other route I think it could do with a few more dry days.

Today I took Izzi for a bit of mountain cragging. We headed up on to Rannoch wall on Buachaille Etive Mor. We climbed the 4 star classic Agag's Groove (VD). This steep and exposed route was nice and dry and also other routes such as January Jigsaw, Satan's Slit and Grooved Arete were also dry. Several other teams on Curved Ridge which was a great way for us to descend back to our bags. A great day in perfect Scottish rock climbing conditions.

Well after a couple of wet days here in Fort William with the only option to do some training at the Ice Factor and Kimber's bouldering wall, I got back out today in Glen Nevis. Today I was climbing with returning client Izzi. Izzi is happy to leave the ice axes at home, forget about the hot aches, not worry about ripping gore tex and kick start her rock climbing season. Today we went for a shake down day in Glen Nevis, going over some of the classic routes and getting a wee bit of mileage. We started on Two Pines (Severe) on Repton Buttress which I led up, then Izzi led up Pandora (Severe) for two pitches and then I took over and led up Phantom Slab (VS 4c). After a wee lunch break we headed over to the Alp and Izzi led up Pine wall (Hard Severe) where we then abbseiled of the pine tree. To finish off the day I led up the Polldubh classic Resurrection (VS 4c) which was a little damp in places. So 9 pitches and 2 abseils saw us back at the car and we didnt even reach for our waterproofs once!

So day two of our little mini break over east. Again we found some nice dry rock at Dunkeld. We headed up to Upper Cave Crag, somewhere I haven't climbed before. Ben and I started on Squirm (E1 5c) which was a great route but Ben got a little psyched out so I lowered him and Graham came up instead. We then went on to climb Coffin Corner (HVS 5a) which was great fun and more good jamming, following this we climbed Lilly Langtry (E2 5b) which felt spooky at the top and very flaky and then we finished off on Corpse (E2 5c) which was brilliant. A great couple of days to kick off the summer rock climbing season! Just need lots of sunshine!

Today Graham, Johann and I headed over East in search of sunshine and dry rock. And we found it. Big Ben also made a guest appearance after just getting back from leading an expedition up Kilimanjaro. We started off over on Seventy Foot Wall ticking off Razor Flake (Direct Start HVS 5b) then onto Bent Peg (HVS 5c), Slings (E1 5b) and Seventy Foot Wall (HVS 5b). Then Ben and I headed over to The Main Crag and climbed Monolith Recess (E2 5b) which has a fantastic slightly overhanging jamming pitch. Brilliant route. Unfortunately Dracula was wet so none of us got on it again. A good day with the old crew.