Today was meant to be the second day of our traverse however as we binned it yesterday we opted for something different. Mike was keen to stay away from the main ridge as he's been up and down a few times so we went for a nice horseshoe route through the Red Cullin. We headed up Beinn Dearg Mhor which was nice and blowy with very little shelter before heading onto Glamaig. This hill is great for scree running which was really useful for Mike as he has done very little of this and wasn't very confident on this terrain. After a few top tips we were both down the scree in no time. A great day to be had it the Cullin isn't playing ball or the fitness levels are not super high.
Today was meant to be the second day of our traverse however as we binned it yesterday we opted for something different. Mike was keen to stay away from the main ridge as he's been up and down a few times so we went for a nice horseshoe route through the Red Cullin. We headed up Beinn Dearg Mhor which was nice and blowy with very little shelter before heading onto Glamaig. This hill is great for scree running which was really useful for Mike as he has done very little of this and wasn't very confident on this terrain. After a few top tips we were both down the scree in no time. A great day to be had it the Cullin isn't playing ball or the fitness levels are not super high.
Today I was out with Mike who has an ongoing ambition to traverse the Cullin Ridge. So we set off at 8am with bags packed and waterproofs on. Strong winds were causing concern and on approach it was feeling a little bit wild to be teetering along a ridge. On arrival to Loch Coir' a'Ghrunda there were white horses on the water and whirlwinds of spray which again were showing us that conditions were less than ideal! So we made the decision to bin the attempt due to the weather and a few other reason but we still went up Sgurr nan Eag just to confirm that our decision was right. On our decent we passed a few other walkers who planned to do the same and not spend to much time in the foul weather!
Today I was out with Alan and Ruraidh
for a spot of rock climbing. We were meant to be doing more winter
climbing in March but the weather wasn't great so Alan decided tokeep his extra day for some sunny rock climbing. Both of the guys
are keen to learn to lead and have had some input already from Al
Halewood. We went up into Glen Nevis and started off on Reptons
Right hand (VD) where I did all the leading but they were building
their own belays and working on their judgement of what a good
belay/runner is and isn't. We then found a nice little abseil back
down to the bags. This got the guys ready for a lead on Styx's Right
wall with me in close proximity on the rope next to them. A good
clean lead by both of the guys with good belays, good gear and good
climbing technique. The rain was threatening on the top pitch of
Right Wall and by the time we topped out it was fair to say it was
raining. So not keen for them to lead in the rain, I took them up
Pine Wall (HS) to the large pine on the Gutter where together we set
up an abseil and ran away from the crag.
After an early start, Ben and I had a
few hours to do a spot of climbing before I had to get back over to
Fort William. We started of on a VS called ..... which turned out to
be a total sandbag. Ben took a belay half way up and I took over
and ended up halfway up a blank slab with snow falling, no gear and
feet slipping, I retreated down to a tree, we rapped off and the
realised that I had wandered onto an E1 slab! A little bit
frustrated that I backed off this I went and led up (E1) which I
abbed off the top and stripped the gear as Ben wanted to give it a
shot too. Still annoyed with my weakness, I wanted to climb Anger
and Lust (E2 5c) which was fantastic, a tricky route with a great
finale at the top. I was very pleased to get to the top without
falling off. The hardest part was abbing down the route and over the
overhang to strip the gear! A great couple of hours of climbing
despite finding out that I am weak!
After Ben and I got off the hill with
our group, we said our fair wells and headed over to the Pass of
Ballater for a spot of evening cragging. This granite roadside crag
gave us some good sport and climbed several VS's and a couple of E1's before heading
off to the pub for a few well earned pints.
Today I met up with a my good friend
Ben Cooling and we led a group up Lochnagar for Wow Scotland. It was
a fantastic day to be walking up a new mountain, the sun was shining
and the tops were capped with snow. I was particularly excited about
taking this group out as it gave me an opportunity to have a look at
the crags on the side of Lochnagar, especially the possible winter
lines. Really keen to climb here next winter! The walk was part of
a charity event where the participants had placed a bid to spend a
day walking with members of the Gurkha army. Out of the group of 14
there was 4 Gurkha's, 5 novice hill walkers and 3 folk that had walked
up Lochnagar before and Ben and I. It was a great day with lots of
tired people at the end.
Today I was back out with John who has
recently fell in love with Buachaille Etive Mor but more specifically
Rannoch Wall. After climbing Curved Ridge last week, he was really
keen to climb a route that breaks through the steep wall. As the sun
was shining and the routes were dry, we opted for January Jigsaw
(Severe) which gives 4 great pitches of exposed climbing which
becomes more and more exciting as you get higher. It was bitterly
cold today so we didn't really want to be hanging around so after we
topped out we descended down Curved Ridge and back to the bags. We
had, what seemed like, the whole mountain to ourselves except one
team was on their way up Curved Ridge as we were leaving. Another
fantastic day with John who now has seen lots of other routes he
wants to climb on the mountain. Watch this space to see what we get
up to next time.
This evening I met up with Craig and
Graham for a quick evening route. Whilst Craig was leading the first
pitch I had a wee solo on Dundee Buttress and A N Other route (Ahem).
After getting down I tied in and followed the guys up. I took over
on the top pitch finishing up the true Finish (E1 5b) and also got
bitten by my first midge of the season!