Ridge Traverse

Over the last two days I took Brian for his second attempt on the Cullin ridge Traverse. Last years attempt he got as far as An Dorus heading South to North. This time we went from North to South so we could cover the Munro's he hasn't done and if we don't complete it then Brian will have done the ridge in two overlapping halves. We made good progress reaching Sgurr nan Gillean via the South-East ridge, after helping two chaps who were in a spot of bother, crag fast with out a rope. We got down the west ridge before the crowds, looking back from the top of Am Basteir we could see there was now a traffic jam. We were moving well, off Am Bastier, over Bruach na Fraith where we saw a load of rucksacks buried with rocks, I presume to stop the pesky Ravens getting their lunch. Going over An Caisteal and Bidein Druim nan Ramh we passed several teams who were doing the ridge traverse, all looking tired after the distance they have covered. We reached Brians 'high point' from last year, Sgurr a Mhadaidh and passed through An Dorus up to Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh, our final peak for the day. We dropped down to the col below Sgurr Thormaidh and set up for the night. A good 10.5 hour day!


4.30am alarm clock woke Brian and I up and after a brew and some food we were on our way by 5.15. Our first port of call was the Inn Pinn via Sgurr na Banachdich. We were on the summit on the Inn Pinn at 7am, we had the whole place to ourselfs and we had fantastic views of the whole ridge. We next headed over to Sgurr MhicChoinich, then back tracked to Collies Ledge before making our ascent up the highest peak, Sgurr Alasdair. From here we abseiled down in to the TD Gap and climbed out the other side before heading over to Sgurr Dubh Mor. Unfortunately time was getting on and we had been on the go for many hours and Brian was happy to call it a day. He felt to tired to carry on and then walk out. So we headed down to Loch Coir a' Ghrunnda and back out the Glen Brittle for and ice cream and a nice cold drink. We were very luck to have fantastic weather for the two days, we even got a little snow flurry! Overnight it was very cold, frost all over the bivi Bags in the morning! We did 9 Munro's in total and spent 12 hours on the go on the second day cumulating to 22.5 hours on the hill. Great effort Brian!
Cioch West




Today I was out with Simon, David and Brian and some rock climbing was on the cards. Weather was good and dinner last night was even better so we were all full of energy. With a mixed group (experienced climber but done nothing for 20 years, indoor rock climber and another lapsed climber) we didn't want to push ourselves to hard especially as this was day 1 of 5. We went and climbed the classic Cioch west (Severe), first climbed in 1919. What a brilliant route, I had never done this route before but I will be keen to do again. It has some fantastic warm up pitches before the crux, an easy-ish crux (just a little exposed) and some excellent finishing pitches. From the top of the route we climbed Cioch Nose (VD) to the summit of the Cioch. From here we down climbed a wee bit the abseiled down the slabs and traversed back out to the scree's and descended back to the minibus where we met the other team who had just been up the Inn Pinn. Well done to the guys today, they all put in a great effort and I'm happy to announce that their cob webs are well and truly blown away. Ridge traverse tomorrow.....I think so!
Fairhead









I have just been in Northern Ireland for a week rock climbing on the coast. I was here lastyear and because it was so good, I was keen to come back. This year I was teamed up with Tim Neil which meant that I would be going home very tired indeed! After arriving on the ferry we had a long drive up to Fairhead but we went to the crag straight away. I started off on the brilliant two pitch Titanic (E2 5c) which I did in one 60m pitch then Tim led Thunder Road (E3 5c) after a recommendation (sandbag) by a local (the skin on the back of Tims hands never really recovered). The following day we climbed Candy Kisses (E4 6a), Halloween (E4 6a) and The Brasser (E2 5c), all three star routes but very different from one another. The following day we climbed Blade Runner (E3 5c) and Track of the Cat (E4 6a) followed by The Hustler (E3 5c), Salango (E3 5c), Dark Forces (E4 6a), Marconi Arete (E4 5c), Embankment (E2 5c), GBH (E3 5c), Aoife (E1 5b) and Waist Deep in Alligators (E4 6a) the following 4 days. We were in a group of 13 and between us we had made over 150 ascents, cumulating over 300 stars and getting close to 800 E points between us. It obvious to say that the weather was rather good!
Team sendage



This evening I arrived up in North Wales and met up with Tim, John and Murdoch in Llamberis Pass. The guys were heading up to Dinas Cromlech so I tagged along. Tim and I climbed Resurrection (E4 6a) and Murdoch flew up Lord of the Flies (E6 6a) which was very impressive! Then Will and Dave turned up and Will cruised Right Wall (E5 6a) so a super impressive evening hit. Next stop was the pub and off to Fairhead tomorrow!
Traveling Day


Today was my travelling day and the start of a mini holiday. So on my way down to cross the border, I stopped off in Glencoe and met up with Kenny and we went for a wee climb on Creag A'Bhancair. I had climbed here years ago when I was really weak, so coming back with a bit of strength and age I was able to make some progress. Kenny put the clips in and then I had a few goes on a top rope to figure out the moves and find the rests on Uncertain emotions (7b). I think a few more goes I will have it in the bag.
Day 2 on Skye




Today was Inn Pinn day, the day of the week the guys were most looking forward to.  The all made a fantastic effort getting upto the Pinn before the hoards of people heading for the same objective.  After a relatively speedy ascent we made an abseil of and wandered down and back up to Sgurr Mhic Choinnich.  Two new peaks for the chaps and a fun scree run down into Coire Lagan.  I'll let the pictures tell the story.