Today I was back in Snowdonia and out with Ben who was keen for some mileage. The aim of our two days out was to do plenty of multi pitch climbing and scrambling and looking at the transition between the two, useful for Ben's future alpine trip. We headed on to Idwal Slabs and started off on Ordinary Route (D) where I started off leading then Ben taking over for a bit, looking at belays, rope management and ways of using systems more efficiently. We then carried on up onto Lazarus (S) and then onto Continuation Crack (HVS 5a) which was brilliant little route. After all of this we headed back down to the base, climbed up two pitches and looked at multi-pitch abseil descents, how it can be done safely and efficiently. Finally to finish I guided Ben up Hope (VD) and we decended off the left via the scrambling decent and back to the car for 5. This evening I met up with John, Caff and Calum for a wee boulder at the Gravestones then onto the Cromlech boulders.
Today I was back in Snowdonia and out with Ben who was keen for some mileage. The aim of our two days out was to do plenty of multi pitch climbing and scrambling and looking at the transition between the two, useful for Ben's future alpine trip. We headed on to Idwal Slabs and started off on Ordinary Route (D) where I started off leading then Ben taking over for a bit, looking at belays, rope management and ways of using systems more efficiently. We then carried on up onto Lazarus (S) and then onto Continuation Crack (HVS 5a) which was brilliant little route. After all of this we headed back down to the base, climbed up two pitches and looked at multi-pitch abseil descents, how it can be done safely and efficiently. Finally to finish I guided Ben up Hope (VD) and we decended off the left via the scrambling decent and back to the car for 5. This evening I met up with John, Caff and Calum for a wee boulder at the Gravestones then onto the Cromlech boulders.
Today was my last day working up in the North West for Martin Moran. Another great forecast meant that Simon and I had a brilliant day on the Cioch Nose, a 4 star Severe which has continued interest and a brilliant 500m+ ridge of scrambling and easy climbing to finish up. It was great for me to do a route I haven't done before and also climb on a rock type I haven't been on either, Torridonian sandstone is absolutely fantastic! So a great end to a great week of sun, climbing, scrambling, great food and great company! Off to a wedding this weekend for lots of great food and dancing (at least an attempt anyway!)
Over the last two days I took Brian for
his second attempt on the Cullin ridge Traverse. Last years attempt
he got as far as An Dorus heading South to North. This time we went
from North to South so we could cover the Munro's he hasn't done and
if we don't complete it then Brian will have done the ridge in two
overlapping halves. We made good progress reaching Sgurr nan Gillean
via the South-East ridge, after helping two chaps who were in a spot
of bother, crag fast with out a rope. We got down the west ridge
before the crowds, looking back from the top of Am Basteir we could
see there was now a traffic jam. We were moving well, off Am
Bastier, over Bruach na Fraith where we saw a load of rucksacks
buried with rocks, I presume to stop the pesky Ravens getting their
lunch. Going over An Caisteal and Bidein Druim nan Ramh we passed
several teams who were doing the ridge traverse, all looking tired
after the distance they have covered. We reached Brians 'high point'
from last year, Sgurr a Mhadaidh and passed through An Dorus up to
Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh, our final peak for the day. We dropped down to
the col below Sgurr Thormaidh and set up for the night. A good 10.5
hour day!
4.30am alarm clock woke Brian and I up
and after a brew and some food we were on our way by 5.15. Our first
port of call was the Inn Pinn via Sgurr na Banachdich. We were on
the summit on the Inn Pinn at 7am, we had the whole place to ourselfs
and we had fantastic views of the whole ridge. We next headed over
to Sgurr MhicChoinich, then back tracked to Collies Ledge before
making our ascent up the highest peak, Sgurr Alasdair. From here we
abseiled down in to the TD Gap and climbed out the other side before
heading over to Sgurr Dubh Mor. Unfortunately time was getting on
and we had been on the go for many hours and Brian was happy to call
it a day. He felt to tired to carry on and then walk out. So we
headed down to Loch Coir a' Ghrunnda and back out the Glen Brittle
for and ice cream and a nice cold drink. We were very luck to have
fantastic weather for the two days, we even got a little snow flurry!
Overnight it was very cold, frost all over the bivi Bags in the
morning! We did 9 Munro's in total and spent 12 hours on the go on
the second day cumulating to 22.5 hours on the hill. Great effort
Brian!
Today I was out with Simon, David and
Brian and some rock climbing was on the cards. Weather was good and
dinner last night was even better so we were all full of energy.
With a mixed group (experienced climber but done nothing for 20
years, indoor rock climber and another lapsed climber) we didn't want
to push ourselves to hard especially as this was day 1 of 5. We went
and climbed the classic Cioch west (Severe), first climbed in 1919.
What a brilliant route, I had never done this route before but I will
be keen to do again. It has some fantastic warm up pitches before
the crux, an easy-ish crux (just a little exposed) and some excellent
finishing pitches. From the top of the route we climbed Cioch Nose
(VD) to the summit of the Cioch. From here we down climbed a wee bit
the abseiled down the slabs and traversed back out to the scree's and
descended back to the minibus where we met the other team who had
just been up the Inn Pinn. Well done to the guys today, they all put
in a great effort and I'm happy to announce that their cob webs are
well and truly blown away. Ridge traverse tomorrow.....I think so!
I have just been in Northern Ireland
for a week rock climbing on the coast. I was here lastyear and because it was so good, I was keen to come back.
This year I was teamed up with Tim Neil which meant that I would be
going home very tired indeed! After arriving on the ferry we had a
long drive up to Fairhead but we went to the crag straight away. I
started off on the brilliant two pitch Titanic (E2 5c) which I did in
one 60m pitch then Tim led Thunder Road (E3 5c) after a
recommendation (sandbag) by a local (the skin on the back of Tims
hands never really recovered). The following day we climbed Candy
Kisses (E4 6a), Halloween (E4 6a) and The Brasser (E2 5c), all three
star routes but very different from one another. The following day
we climbed Blade Runner (E3 5c) and Track of the Cat (E4 6a) followed
by The Hustler (E3 5c), Salango (E3 5c), Dark Forces (E4 6a), Marconi
Arete (E4 5c), Embankment (E2 5c), GBH (E3 5c), Aoife (E1 5b) and
Waist Deep in Alligators (E4 6a) the following 4 days. We were in a
group of 13 and between us we had made over 150 ascents, cumulating
over 300 stars and getting close to 800 E points between us. It
obvious to say that the weather was rather good!
This evening I arrived up in North
Wales and met up with Tim, John and Murdoch in Llamberis Pass. The
guys were heading up to Dinas Cromlech
so I tagged along. Tim and I climbed Resurrection (E4 6a) and
Murdoch flew up Lord of the Flies (E6 6a) which was very impressive!
Then Will and Dave turned up and Will cruised Right Wall (E5 6a) so a
super impressive evening hit. Next stop was the pub and off to
Fairhead tomorrow!
Today was my travelling day and the
start of a mini holiday. So on my way down to cross the border, I
stopped off in Glencoe and met up with Kenny and we went for a wee
climb on Creag A'Bhancair. I had
climbed here years ago when I was really weak, so coming back with a
bit of strength and age I was able to make some progress. Kenny put
the clips in and then I had a few goes on a top rope to figure out
the moves and find the rests on Uncertain emotions (7b). I think a
few more goes I will have it in the bag.