Yesterday Martin took a team of 3 out for their skills day and today I took them for a ridge outing.  The aim of their two day is to get a little bit of mileage before they head out to the Alps in August for a Mont Blanc ascent.  I took them up onto the Black Carls of Beinn Eighe which is a fantastic grade II ridge.  We had a good look at the rope work required, new movement techniques and safe methods of descent.  The weather was spectacular, blue skies and light winds.  Conditions are great for ice climbing! With a day off tomorrow it would be a waste to not go out climbing.  Cant wait!  Today was my last day's work for Moran Mountain this winter season.

Today I have been working with a team of 3 for the first day of their mountaineering course for Moran Mountain.  We took advantage of the great snow conditions high on the mountain which allowed us to practice the relevant skills required for safe travel through the mountains.  After crampon and axe work we had a go at slipping and sliding before roping up and embarking on a grade II gully which lead us up to a Munro.  A really wild top out meant we had a quick stop at the summit, took a bearing and made our way back down.  A wild day!

Murdoch

Look at the chap high on Poachers (in red)

Now look at him, he just took a lob!  Very exciting!

He was fine so we climbed on...

This is for you Jenny!

Big plans were being developed last night so Murdoch and I, both full of psyche met at 4.30am for a day of ice climbing on Liathach.  We had planned to climb 4 ice route but only came away with two. Two amazing route might I add!  On arrival to the crag at the crack of dawn we started on the Cold Climbs Classic of Poachers Fall (V,5).  A route that I have wanted to climb for a while and a route Murdoch has been wanting to do ever since he was born.  it was on of the best grade V ice routes Ive done, a true classic.  With loads of time on our hand we then went and climbed Salmon Leap (VI,6) which is also a must do route.  The conditions were just perfect.  The ice was steep but totally bomber.  Ice screws were up to the hilt and belays were good!  Two outstanding routes.  We were going to do Umbrella Falls (V,5) but we decided to save it for another day.  Martin Moran and his client did climb it and said it was in great condition   Alan Fyfee and his mates climbed Sinister Prong which was also amazing.  Worth getting up there, conditions are great right now.  Mixed and Ice, your decision!

First pitch of Vanishing

Last day for Roger on his 5 day climbing course.  After our final night in 'the shed' we fought through the winds for a final route on Ben Nevis before we headed back to Loch Carron for showers and baths and cake.  With tired legs and a wild day forecast we opted for a short route which we could climb quickly and abseil off.  We found ourselves on Vanishing Gully (V,5)*** which is made up of two pitches, a fantastic sheltered cave belay at the top of pitch 1, amazing sticky ice and an abseil descent.  Chris and his client were ahead of us and romped up the route, either to get up and out of the foul weather or too keep a clear path for us, either way, thanks Chris!  Mike and his clients also popped into the cave to keep Roger company whilst I led the last pitch to the abseil station.

Mike about to Vanish into the cave

The easy way down

Classic self portrait of Roger, summited Everest 2012

All in all we have had a great week.  5 brilliant routes, 18 stars, 4 ice routes, 3 Cold Climbs Classics, 1 ridge, 3 new routes for me, 5 new routes for Roger, 5 bags of Haribo, 2 nights bivi'in in a shed, 4 different pubs visited, several ales sampled and many many laughs.  This week I have had a truly enjoyable experience with Roger who is a frequent client for Moran Mountain.

Tea on the summit

Food on the summit

Home made flan and home made apple and raspberry crumble!

getting out of our quaint accommodation this morning at 5am, Roger and I both had a spring in our step as we headed in for some classic grade 5 ice action.  We had discussed all day yesterday what we would climb but the final decision was either Orion Direct, Point 5 Gully or Hadrian's Direct.  When we got to the CIC hut we spotted a team going for Orion Direct so we went for Point 5 Gully (V,5)****.  We were first on and made great progress through the route encountering some fantastic ice.  Unfortunately we could only see about 10m around us as the cloud was in thick and hard but this was great for staying focussed on the task in hand.   Haribo's were the main sponsors of the trip and I can report they were ample fuel for completing this journey up this amazing grade V Cold Climb's Classic!  Another great day was done before we headed back to our -2 star shed for some flan and crumble!

Ice looks rather tempting

Love this bit!

Heading into 'The Gap'

Loving the Ridge (Better than Everest?!)

Roger coming out of the Gap

This morning was a the start of the mini expedition to take advantage of the fantastic condition on Ben Nevis, the current mecca of Scottish winter climbing.  With a loaded van of food, climbing gear and over night equipment we made our way to the North Face of Ben Nevis.  Today we opted for the most sought after route of Ben Nevis.  Tower Ridge (IV,3)****.  I would say that climbing the ridge today, in its current condition, was by far the best fun I have had on it.  Bomber neve everywhere, ice forming in all sorts of places allowing for over taking without getting in peoples way.  A smooth, continuous journey to the top.  The thing I like about Tower Ridge is that it never get boring!  The summit was capped in cloud so the views were limited but the ascent made some spectacular panoramic.   Our descent down number 4 gully showed us what routes were available for the next couple of days but we had already spotted a route or 2 on our ascent.

Our accommodation for the 3 days

Forget warm accommodation, forget running water, forget comfy beds.  Just two climbers, psyched out of their minds, getting close to the mountain so we can beat all the queues!  Perfect!

Never saw a soul

Better than Everest?!

No map...its ok, we have a guidebook

Wow!  Not much to say about this other than a massive walk in, an amazing setting, the climbing was fantastic and a massive walk out!  Penguin Gully (III,4)**** on Beinn Dearg was worthy of its 4 star status. Tom Patey, again, unlocked an amazing journey up a isolated and remote mountain.  A truly spectacular day.  It felt like a gamble heading in there as you cant see the route until you stand right below it.  We were rewarded with a truly unforgettable day.  A big day.  A mighty 350m route which we dispatched in the same time we took to walk in.  Cant wait to go back in there with someone else!  An amazing grade V ice route to the right to do too!

Everest to this

Loving the neve (bit soggy)

Great views from the descent

Day one of a week long climbing course for Roger.  This week is going to be an interesting one as Roger is un sure of what to do next in terms of the mountains.  The last route he climbed was Everest, 10 months ago.  So what does one do after Everest....well Scottish winter climbing of course!  So with some great conditions in the North West highlands we started off on Liathach with a fine ascent of George (III,4).  With one team beating us to the start by a few paces, we opted for the harder left fort of Sinister Prong (IV,5)***.  It was a great piece of ice climbing which was quite thin and where we both had to pull a little.  It was perfect for Roger, he found that love of the mountains that had been sitting dormant for 10 months and loved the challenge of having to pull on his arms! This is going to be a good week working for Martin Moran.