One of my favourite days out in Glencoe

Today was a afternoon jaunt up into Glencoe with my cousin Charlie and a few of his buddies. Don't worry I didn't charge him!  It was great weather so Charlies buddies thought they would do some 'extreme Yoga'.  I thought it was a ridiculous idea and when I tried it I felt ridiculous!  Maybe I didn't do it right but it felt weird.  I don't think its going to pick off with me but each to their own.  It was a good day with great craic and a nice beer at the Clachaig, standard Glencoe protocol!

The worst boy band in the world

Charlie has no fear!  It runs in the family!

Charlie ahead of the rest.....he clearly has good Genes!

Today I was back out with Alan, making the most of the nice weather.  Options were Ben Nevis or Glencoe.  After discussing objectives we went for the brilliant North Face Route (Severe) on Buachaille Etive Mor which led us to the bottom of the 3 star VS 5a of Hiccup.  Its described in 2 pitches but we squeezed 3 out of it.  I was very impressed, its a nice route.  It eventually joins the top of NFR and after a wee scramble up and then a traverse, we were back onto Curved Ridge with a front row seat of the 3 teams of climbers on Rannoch Wall.  The mountain was very busy, a team below us on NFR, 3 pairs on Rannoch Wall and about 12-14 folk on Curved Ridge.  Its great to see people out enjoying some of Glencoe's.....no Scotlands best routes!

North Face Route, lower section

Not sure if this is a smile or not..?

Busy on Ranoch Wall

This afternoon I met up with Ben and we headed up into Glen Nevis for a few routes.  Ben was keen to get on an E1 as he hasn't led one for a while.  At Gorge Crag, I led Conscription (E1 5b).  Given one star but I think should be two.  Ben then lead All our Yesterdays (E1 5b) with a textbook belly flop onto the belay ledge, it was brilliant, like a seal berthing on a beach!  After that spectacular performance, we climbed In the Groove (E3 5c) which was brilliant.  Ben fancied the first 5b pitch but got shut down so I got to lead both pitches.  We abseiled off from the top as the rain started to fall, unfortunately Plagues of Blazes was wet and time was against us and we bailed.  A great day with a true legend!

View from the crag

...too hard for me!  Last two evening I met up with Tony and Blair and headed up to Buzzard Crag.  Tony has a couple of projects he's been working on, trying to climb them on top rope before he leads them.  First evening we were working the moves on Liminality (E6 6c) as Tony's main objective was wet.  This great route follows an arête with some savage moves in the middle with some really hard to place gear (should you lead it).  Brilliant moves.  I wasn't able to link the whole route but could do most of the moves.  Probably the hardest route I have ever been on.  Today we went back up to the crag and Juggernaut (E7 6b/c) was dry which was Tony's objective.  We played around on top rope again, Tony climbed from bottom to top without falling, hopefully his next effort will be on the lead.  I, on the other hand will be trying it over and over again on top rope and will probably lead it in 2062!  It was a great couple of evenings too be out, the temperature is dropping and the midges are thinning out.  Love Autumn cragging.

looking down to Fort William from Buzzard Crag

Rachel and Pete on King Bee

Pete and I on Inbred

We had to escape Skye to find dry rock today. We had to escape the West coast. We were greeted with sunshine and a stiff breeze as Rachel, Pete and I pulled up at Creag Dubh. We headed to Lower Central Wall and warmed up on Mirador (Severe) which gave some nice climbing and worth doing if climbing at the grade. Next on the agenda was the 3 star classic on Great Wall, King Bee (VS). I led up feeding Rachel's rope though the original line and made sure Pete's went through the variation start at HVS 5a to give him a bit of a work out. After topping out, we abseiled down and Pete and I climbed the classic Inbred (HVS 5a) in two pitches. An essential route for anyone who climbs at Creag Dubh. After another abseil we all went back to Lower Central Wall and all climbed the 'interestingly' named Phellatio (HVS 5a) which was another great route but quite a serious finale. A fabulous day and great to be back in the su

Amazing rock on Inbred

Pete approaching the first belay

Amazing rock and weather

Pete abseiling off

Pete getting tangled up

n.

Getting geared up

Today I was back on the Isle of Skye but doing some slightly different work. Today I was working with Mike and we were were controlling a group of 10 blokes on a stag do. Original plans were to head up the Inn Pinn but unfortunately the winds were high and it was wet so we opted for an ascent of Sgurr an Fheadain instead. The North East ridge provided the group with a good challenge up to the summit, th wind was still strong even though we were off the main ridge. Our decent took us into Coir' a' Mhadaidh and onto the fairy pools where we initially threw the Stag in and then one by one, we all jumped in. You can tell summer is on its last legs, the water was freezing! After briskly walking back to the cars to warm up we headed down to the Old Inn for a well earned beer.

Ready for some steeper ground

On the top

Air time and wet time!

Obviously wasn't going to be a high performance day today from me! Even Murdoch was feeling tired. It was a social able day as Tess and Ian were here at The Camel. Ian and Tess were the ones who found and developed SuperCrag. I Started warming up on Paralysis by Analysis (7a+). Bad idea! Too warm too soon, arms ceasing to function. Super high gravity day! As I have done this route before I tried the moves on Giza Break (7b+) which I will work on next time I'm back with fresh arms. I finished off on There's Sand in My Pants (6c+) but wasn't that enjoyable as I was so tired. I finished the day by a sauna, steam room and Jacuzzi! Should be strong next week??

Day 5 – Feeling pathetic and weak!

A great week at new venues and climbed lots of cool routes. We stayed at the Elphin hut which is a fantastic location for climbing in the NW highlands.

Ian on the 8a

Everything ached today but after we got a few routes climbed I was feeling better. We started the day with a pumpy traverse of Walk across the Rooftops (E3 5c), not an ideal start to the day but was a nice climb, very pumpy. Then we climbed Immaculate Deception (E1 5b) and had another wee solo around. After this we went back into Stone Pig area and climbed Sonique (E4 5c) which was a brilliant route, really worth doing then followed by Miss Moneypenny (E5 6a) which I managed to get up by the skin of my teeth. Wicked routes in this wee area, very pumpy climbing I thought. Day 4 – Completely Broken and needing arm transplants! Too tired to take photos.

Murdoch Walking Across the Rooftops

Mountaineering to find a route