Beautiful day on the grit |
John cruising up Green Gut |
John loving the friction climbing |
Today was our first day at the Peak and
it started with a blue sky morning in Sheffield. When we arrived at
Stanage there was a wee bit of cloud but that cleared pretty quickly
to leave a clear cold crisp day. We had a great time climbing some
of the classics with doing minimal walking. Friction in these
conditions is fantastic, John had never climbed on the grit and was
picking it up pretty well. We worked our way from right to left and
climbed Crack and Corner (HVD 4b), Manchester Buttress (HS 4b),
Gargoyle Buttress (VS 4b), Black Hawk Hell Crack (S 4a), Flying
Buttress (HVD) and Queersville (HVS 5a). A brilliant day at Stanage,
can't with for more tomorrow.
Slapping over the top |
Perfect day on the grit |
Look happy! |
Today was always going to be a mountain
day but we definitely didn't have any choice. I think it stopped
raining for about 5 minutes today! Nonetheless, it was a brilliant
day. We parked up at Pen y Pass and traversed into Llanberis Pass,
navigated our was over the top of Dinas Mot and up to the base of The
Parson's Nose (D) on Clogwyn y Ddysgl. This great scramble was
brilliant in the wet, greasy in places and made the tricky
bits....well....even trickier! Some power screams echoed around the
cwm now and again! We continued up the Arete to join the main ridge
which led up onto the summit of Snowdon. This was the first time I
have been on this summit and never saw another person...pretty
unsurprisingly to be honest! Despite being soaked to the skin and
with a 3 hour drive ahead we opted for a little more than walking
down the Miners track. We headed SE and then NE down a nice wee
scramble at about grade 1 which led u eventually to the Miners track
for a brisk walk back to the car. A 7 hour round trip, a quick
change then a drive over to the Peak district for 3 days rock
climbing!
How this weather really made us feel! |
Today was wall to wall sunshine so John
and I opted for somewhere with brilliant climbing and south facing.
Tremadog was the obvious choice. John has climbed here in the Past
and was keen to get back here for two reasons, the climbing is ace
and the walk-in is even better (sub 3 minutes). After a wee shopping
trip in Llanberis we rocked up at Tremadog and climbed Christmas
Curry (S), then onto One Step in the Clouds (VS) and finished off on
Meshach (HVS) just as the sun disappeared. We were then blessed with
having a coffee with Eric from the cafe, we chatted away, talking
about base jumping and we shared our Eiger North Face stories...so
good to talk to such a legend who is showing no signs of slowing
down! A brilliant day
Top of Tryfan |
Cneifon Arête |
Today was our first day in Wales and
unfortunately it wasn't wall to wall sunshine. The odd shower made
its appearance so we made the most of it and had a link up day of
some of Ogwen's finest scrambles. We covered lots of ground as John
hasn't been into Ogwen and he really wanted a big day. So our 8
hours saw us cover North West Face Route (Grade 2) onto the Idwal
Staircase Continuation (Grade 2), then over and up The Cneifon Arête
(grade 3/Diff) then down the False Gribin Ridge and up to Glyder Fach
via The Chasm (Grade 3)...(not for people who drink a lot of
beer!)...oh and don't try and do it with your rucksack on, its not
easy! From there we descended Bristly Ridge (Grade 1) and then up
and over Tryfan. Back to the car just as it got dark. Perfect.
The Chasm |
Cantilever stone |
Today John and I were in the Lake
District to break up the journey to Wales. A mountain day was on the
cards so we headed down Ullswater Lake to Patterdale and walked up to
Pinnacle Ridge on St Sunday Crag which is a great wee scramble. From
the summit we continued round to Fairfield and made our way back to
the car. A good 7 hour day before our drive down to North Wales.
John and I were both in agreement that the Lakes (where I grew up)
are lovely, interesting and has fantastic climbing....but its just
not Scotland!
After yesterdays big day on the hill,
John was keen for some technique coaching and an arm stretch in the
climbing wall. As John hasn't climbed anything vertical for awhile,
he was keen to see how quickly he would get pumped and in turn will
see how his fitness has changed. First off we spent 3 hours (its not
what you know, its who you know!) in the ice wall, fine tuning John's
technique and we also had a go on the competition routes that were
left up after the weekend. After lunch we went through and did some
coaching on the rock walls, we identified John's weaknesses and did
some exercises to turn them into strengths. After this we hit the
dry tooling, something John hasn't done much of. Its great to see
how well he's coming along. Last season he climbed two grade V's on
consecutive days...maybe grade VI this winter...?