Bags off

Today I was out with Donald and Guy for a look up on Bidean in Glencoe.  The crag looked spectacular with plenty of snow around, huge avalanch debris and plastered crags.  We opted for Flake route (IV,6) which was fun climbing up tight squeezes and some steep mixed sections.  As the route was so buried it was hard to find gear, we worked out over a drink in the Clachaig, that on the 150m route, we only placed 7 bits of gear (excluding belays).  It felt bold!

Guy pulling over the crux

Donald looking cool

Charlie quickly learning what winter climbing is all about

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Today I was out with my cousin Charlie in the Northern Corries of the Cairngorms.  A good day for us, it was Charlie's first time wearing crampons and doing any sort of winter climbing.  Charlie being a very experienced skier, he was used to being on snow and was happy moving around with spikes on.  We started off on Hidden Chimney (III) on Mess of Pottage which we shared with a few others from the university club I was working with last week.  After topping out, we scooted down and climbed Hidden Chimney Direct (IV,5 but was grade III today).  With the intention off abseiling/down climbing off after the first pitch, we decided against it and pressed on.  Conditions were generally good, plenty of soft snow required a wee bit of digging and scraping for gear if you wanted it.

Grrrr!!

Despite being younger, Charlie has a better beard growing ability

Nice moves right at the start

Today Kenny and I hit the Cairngorms for a link up of s couple of routes.  We were quite keen to just keep moving and not hang around on belays too long.  Armed with a single rope and a small rack we started of on Original Summer Route (IV,5) on Aladdins Buttress.  It was in reasonable condition.  a good freeze would bring it into excellent condition.  After topping out we traversed across to Pygmy Ridge (IV,5) and quested up this.  As the winds intensified as we climbed hight we moved off the ridge proper and escaped up the top on the right...didnt fancy flying today.  With a tight time schedule we bailed out content and happy with two routes that neither of us had done.

Waiting for a team ahead to move so time to kill!

Bad conditions outside meant I took Connor into the Ice Factor for a day of getting very pumped in the ice wall, the rock walls and the dry tooling wall.

Aonach Eagach looking inviting but we know it this weather it would not be easy

Today I was out with Connor and Ginge from Limerick Mountaineering Club and we were unfortunately tied to climbing in Glencoe.  With a deteriorating forecast we knew we didn't want to hang around but a swift ascent up into the corrie didn't save the day.  On arrival to Stob Coire nan Lochain, one team decided to give it a miss and turned back but we pressed onto Ordinary Route on Central Buttress.  Unfortunately it wasn't to be today.  The first pitch was mainly unconsolidated snow, and alot of it at that.  Underneath the snow exposed summer conditions,  everything that was loose was wobbling, turf wasn't frozen.  I got to the top of the 1st pitch, dug around for the abseil tat around the block...the block lifted out!  So I created a new belay, brought the lads up and then abseiled off.  So if anybody wants 3 wires then you know where to go! ;)  Ill buy anyone a pint who returns them!  After abseiling off we made our way over to the Zig Zags and descended these is the rain.  Unfortunately we never hit the freezing level and couldn't see any signs of it above us.  I wont be going to Glencoe tomorrow that's for sure.

She won this time!

True warriors, will return for another battle!

Looking very snowy on the North Face of Ben Nevis

 Unfortunately John was unable to make it out today, so after a failed attempt to find someone to climb with, I grabbed my ski's and skins and headed up to Aonach Mor.  I skinned over to Aonach Mor summit and then over to the col between Aonach Mor and Aonach Beag for lunch.  I could see ice forming on Aonach beag, things like Stand and Deliver were thin but looks like a good start.  Aonach Mor East face was plastered, large cornices hang over the tops and reports of huge avalanche debris on the coire below.  Climbers topped out of the West face reporting good conditions.  After this Back over to the pistes for as many runs as my legs would allow.  After an impressive fall I called it a day.

Spot the crown wall...released under its own weight

Plastered!!

Only me and this chap at the col

WE need a wee thaw and a good freeze and then conditions will be amazing!

Making a mess in the fresh snow

 So, another year gone, another year wiser...some say anyway.  After a pretty extensive party last night I managed to slip away in the morning to meet up with Blair armed with my skis, shovel, probe and hangover.  Blair was working today, he's the one of the forecasters for Scottish Avalanche Information Service, he was on top form, so much so I was left in his wake as he slid away uphill to find a suitable area for his observations.  It was great too recap my knowledge of snow and avalanche awareness and who better than going out with Blair (aka Dr Snow).  After we gathered all the observations were noted we slid through the whiteout, gliding on some fresh powder but also plenty of wind packed snow, passing many others who were Skiing at Glencoe on New Year's Day.  I hope 2014 bring you all everything you hope for!

Good weather for taking notes

Blair doing what he does best...digging in snow

Really obvious layers in the snow pack located by wooden sticks

Happy New Year...All the best for 2014!

Me setting off on the superbly sustained first pitch

 It took a bit of effort to leave the car today in the Cairngorms as it was raining at the Ski centre.  We knew it was too get cold so we knew it was going to snow at some point.  We marched in, heads down, almost in silence.  We had an objective and I was over thinking the process as I walked in.  Whilst gearing up Greg Boswell and Will Sim turned up with the intention of trying a route near to us...nothing like a bit of pressure for two exceptional climbers!  I set off on the first pitch and found it to be relatively friendly...nice gear and good hooks.  The hard moves started coming and kept coming all the way to the end of the 35m pitch, A summer HVS 5a pitch.  Murdoch then dispatched the final crux pitch, with a little bit of up and downing to find the best way up.  Super strenuous pitch.  Other teams were on Auricle and two teams bailed off Milky Way after 1 rope length...looked like alot of snow there.

Longlegs helpful

Murdoch Starting the final pitch...harder than it looks