All or nothing!

Today was something new for me.  With amazing snow conditions we left the climbing gear and took out the ski's for a slide around the Cairngorm's.  Unfortunately I dont have skin's at the moment so we were limited to the ski centre hwever we decided to go for a walk and we ended up at the top of Aladdin's Couloir.  A grade I gully, something I would climb up, not ski down.  We today was different!  First time I have ski'd a graded gully and it was really fun,  We wet a team at the top who had just climbed it in 4 hours, I felt a little smug when I ski'd it in 2 minutes!  A brilliant day!

Day one

 I have been out in Aurland, Norway working on a Technical Ice climbing course for Moran Mountain.  We climbed lots of steep ice in a place that makes Rjukan look like Kingussie crag!  A truly stunning place with hundred's of ice falls which have never had axes swung into.  Anything from roadside to over 1 hour walk ins if you wish.  Single pitch to huge 8-10 pitch routes.

Day 2 Kitty seconding our First Ascent '2 Bangs and a slap' WI4

Suzanne getting stuck into '2 bangs and a slap'

Scottish conditions followed me to Norway

Suzanne and Kitty happy with our new first ascent

Another abseil down a brilliant 5 pitch WI4

Hanging out

Brilliant WI5 'scottish stylee' gully

More steep ice!

Cool features

Today I was working for West Coast Mountain Guides and out with Naill and Ken.  Their objective was the brilliant North East Buttress and it was great fun.  Covered in snow and a blanket of rime ice, we battled up the route, breaking trail and digging out belays.  Three teams followed our steps but never quite caught up to that the pole position and do the hard work.  It was fine by me, some of the snow formations that hadnt been ruined by footstep were spectacular.  Mike took his team up Observatory Ridge, Tim and Matt did Newbiggens, Dave did SW Ridge of the Douglas Boulder and more teams on The Curtain.

Today I was back on Ben Nevis and felt like I haven't been up here for a while.  In fact the last time I was up was back in December when we climbed THIS ROUTE.  It was great to be back up and see the unbelievable amounts of snow.  I was out working with Mike for Abacus Mountain Guide and we had a team of 4 for some nice climbing.  With many routes out of bounds we went and took turns on the Curtain Rain (IV,4) and The Curtain (IV,5).  Both great routes for the current conditions and the ice was pretty good.  I hadn't climbed either of these routes so it was an extra bonus as I have walked past them many times.

Alper and Sandra approaching

 Today was day two for Sandra and Alper.  More leading was on the cards for them on Dinnertime Buttress.  Alper led the whole route except for a wee pitch at the top which Sandra had a shot on.  Not bad for her second day winter climbing.  Again the weather was fantastic, cold and clear with a stiff breeze.  Climbers spotted on Raeburns, Scabbard, and Dorsal Arete in SCNL.  This weekend I have been working in the sunshine for West Coast Mountain Guides.

Sandra on her second winter climb getting to grips with half ropes

Alper searching out for more gear

Alper pulling onto easy ground

Sandra about to set off on her first lead

A great place to climb

Sandra enjoying the sharp end

Spot the climbers

Easy descending in all this snow!

Alper and Sandra

Alper absorbed in his first pitch

Today I was out with Alper and Sandra and we had some great winter conditions.  At the moment we couldn't really ask for any more snow, it's great!  It has meant that we couldn't get up to any of the high crags but we still had a great day on the Zig-Zags in Glencoe.  Alper wanted to consolidate his leading skills so he took the rack and rope and led Sandra, a first time winter climber, up all the tricky sections of the route, placing gear at will and building belays here there and everywhere.  As time was getting on, I took over and led up the easy ground to the top before we headed over to Coire nan Lochain to make our descent.  I have never seen so much snow in there in the last 8 years I have been visiting this crag.  They look brilliant to climb on, just getting to them is either really hard work or dangerous (or both).  Were sticking with the low level options for now.

Alper figuring out the lower crux

Happy to have pulled around the balancey top crux

Alper bring up Sandra

Aonach Eagach looking fantastic in the background

Soom deep snow on our descent

Lovely sunset

This week I have been working in the North West highlands on a mountaineering course for Martin Moran.  Matt, Judit, Dave and Paul have had a baptism of fire with their first Scottish winter experience.  We have visited and climbed on Fuar Tholl, Beinn Alligin, Beinn Eighe and today we went too Skye.  We have battled strong winds, high temperatures, lots of snow and lots of rain.  Today we were finally rewarded by a Munro on Skye and fantastic panoramic views.  However, all the other elements were present today, we couldn't escape the true Scottish winter weather that easily.  The 10 minutes we had on the summit of Bruach na Frithe (via the NW ridge (grade I amazing-ness)) was worth all the poor weather we had in the last 3 days.  Tomorrow is the last day.  The team are tired but will not go down without a fight!

The team on the Horns of Beinn Aligin

Exposed traversing

Hanging out on Skye - Judit, Dave and Paul (Matt stayed in to watch the curling)

Skye looking amazing

Go there soon, so much snow!

OK...it wasn't quite as nice as yesterday but I'm not complaining.  It was very windy on the tops and with a deteriorating forecast we decided to stay fairly low (but in the snow).  It was a good day on Sgurr an Fheadain.  Its a good option when the winds are high and coming from the south.  We found plenty of snow on the ridge but didn't hit freezing level.  The steams became trinky to cross on the way out...yes, I got one boot full of water! ;(
Today I was working for Skye Guides.
Pictures to follow.