Clear for now with Team Simpson

After more analysis of the forecaster's we still didn't find a window for a traverse.  So today we went to climb the In Pinn and continue over to Sgurr na Banachdich.  It was pretty ‘Scottish’ today on the mountains, had it been a tad windier and wetter we would have gave the In Pinn a miss.  Fortunately everyone was so gripped there would be no letting go of the rock.  Visibility was about arms length, maybe a touch further so it didn't feel exposed at all today!  Quite busy on the In Pinn as it was meant to be the nicest day of the week!  Yeah right!

Last of the Views

On the In Pinn....we think!?

Summit Smiles

Sunny everywhere else except the summits

After yesterdays thorough soaking I managed to get everything dry and I met up with the Simpson trio of father Alan and two sons Jules and Andrew.  I’m pretty sure Alan is my eldest client to date weighing in at a super fit 70 years old.  I hope I am that fit when I’m 70!  So to celebrate Alan turning 70 he wanted to do a full ridge traverse with his two son’s coming along to be sherpa’s.  After spending a wee while dissecting various weather forecast it became apparent that a traverse wasn't on the cards.  Today we went for a shake down day to see how the group fair up on wet rock and high winds.  We went up onto the midsection via An Dorus and onto Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh and over to Sgurr a’ Ghreadaidh which was living up to its name ‘peak of the thrashing winds’.

Sgurr na Banachdich was an option but in today's conditions it would have been very draining for the group and we didn't want to over do it on the first day.  No photo’s today as my camera isn't waterproof and I didn't want to risk it!

Blimey...ok, I have had a good few weeks both overseas and here in the UK.  It has been lovely weather and I've been out with great company.  The 8 hours of persistent rain didn't bring down my spirit though.  In fact I quite enjoyed it.  It was warm but wet and Colin was fantastic company who shared my love for the rain too!  We had a cracking day on Skye by completing a traverse of the Northern 3 Munros; Sgurr nan Gillean, Am Basteir and Bruach na Frithe.  Now considering every nook and cranny was soaked we made good progress and were off the hill no later than an 8 hour round trip.  There are still large patches of snow which we had to cross which is mainly soft and easy to negotiate with stiff boots, a pole and with relevant experience as we did, otherwise crampons would be very, very useful and will give the inexperienced and nervous plenty of confidence.  Didn't dare take my camera out today...far too wet.

An opportunity to snatch a day rock climbing before I start the next 'mega' stint of work was too good to miss.  The forecast was dry and clear.  What I didn't expect was the cold...it was freezing...must keep moving!  I had 3 climbing partners today, all only available to do a few hours throughout the day.  Kenny and I started off on Vincent (E3 5c) which I led as Kenny has done it a few times before.  The Ewan joined us and I led Diode (E2 5c), Kenny then made a dash for home so Ewan and I climbed Slatehead Slab (E2 5c) which was good but a little dirty...not much traffic for a while I think.  We then went to Blacks Crag and I tried the bold Land Ahoy (E3 5b) but got scared with the lack of gear so traversed onto Shergar (HVS) and finished up that.  Ewans time to leave now so I met up with Graham for a quick burn on The Web (E2 5c) and then over to After Crag and Graham led Rubberface (E1 5b)...or some choss to the right of it...So all in all a great day, Last year I hardly climbed here and wish I had more time to climb all the routes.  Off to Skye now for a month, hopefully it will be sunny and I'll take some pictures!

I just love this crag, such good rock, brilliant climbing, super scary at times and lots to do.  The weather was beautiful, the guidebook author was at the crag (Gary Latter) so it was a nice sociable day and good to see a jedi doing what he does best...climbing.  We had a nice haul of routes starting off with Jump for Joy (E2 5c) then followed by the brilliant bold Erse (E3 5b).  Lou then went on to lead Phellatio (HVS 5a) and I then finished up on Jump So High (E2 5c) which is a brilliant pitch.  We were thinking...'where are all the climbers?' Brilliant weather, dry rock, empty crags? Unfortunately no pictures today.

Blair on Arial

Today was my final day up in the North West and it was another stunning day.  Murdoch and I went to Loch Maree Crag and met Ian and Blair who had camped on the beach, quite an amazing setting.  Jarldom Reach (E5 6b), Arial (E3 5c), Spirit Air (E5 6a) were all climbed today (not by me though) as well as Ian doing a new route after Murdoch and I had left...sounded hard anyway!  A super crag with some steep lines.  Unfortunately having developed a pretty nasty cold over the last few days, sitting in a shady damp heap of heather wasn't doing me any good so Murdoch and I spent the afternoon chilling in the sun drinking orange juice for some vitamin C and soaking up the sun for some vitamin D.

Scotland at it's best

Murdoch cruising another E5/6 6a

Murdoch and Blair

From the car park

Today was a wee bit damp as we left the Ling Hut, our cosy accomodation for two nights.  With the showers clearing we went down to Diabaig where the rain had cleared and left plenty of dry rock, a nice sea breeze and plenty of sunshine.  As like most crags here in the North Wesr, Murdoch didnt have many routes he needed to do so I got us warmed up on the brilliant 4 star route The Pillar (E2 5b).  A route that was wet last time I was here.

Murdoch cruising up Rubblesplitskin

After this Murdoch unleashed.  Firstly on Rubblesplitskin (E3 5c) and then made a brave effort on Local Hero (E6 6a).  To see the relief on Murdoch's face when he topped out was priceless!  Quite a serious proposition.  We then went over to The Main Cliff and we climbed The Black Streak (E1 5c) and then back to the hard stuff for Murdoch to lead Edgeward Whymper (E4 5c).  Again a brilliant haul of routes in such a fantastic setting.  Climbing here is very special whether on the amazing HVS's or the scary E6, something for everyone.  Make a trip!

Mucdoch checking options on Local Hero.

Murdoch having to take his time on Balding Oldie (E6 6b)

Having just got back from the Alps and spent some time with my family, my next port of call was to meet up with Murdoch in the NW for a few days climbing.  Last year we took 5 days out and Murdoch totally 'beasted' me.  On the first day we climbed 3 multi pitch E5's which kinda broke me for the rest of the week.  I swore to myself I wouldn't let this happen on this trip.  So our first day we went to Loch Tollaidh Crag near Gairloch.  It was a great day as I got to lead 4 routes and Murdoch just got the one.  Ok his was a worthy E6 called Balding Oldie but my haul of In the Pink (HVS 5b), Buena Vista (E2 5b), Water Lily (E2 5c) and Strip-teaser (E4 5c) made for a really good day and not a bad effort after spending months on skis and wading around deep snow,  The weather was perfect, vegetation low, nie climbing and I had energy to make a reasonable dinner that night!  Cant wait to get back there.