Turquoise Gully
Simon leading up some great snow |
Lloyd getting pummeled on the lead |
Simon bring Andy and Lloyd up |
Today I was back out with Simon and
Lloyd and we also had Andy along. We had very high winds forecast so
we headed to Meall Gorm to climb Turquoise Gully (III,4). A short
walk in and sheltered crag. The thaw has had a slight effect and
removed a lot of snow but actually made the ice really good to climb
on, like some sweet toffee. I led the first pitch to get a feel of
conditions then I was happy for Simon and Lloyd to lead each other
and Andy up the route whilst I soloed just ahead of them. The guys
were moving slickly as they both have a good rock climbing
backgrounds and dealing with the winter technicalities very well.
Gear, good techniques, belays were flowing like clockwork. After
topping out into the wind we walked 50m and made our way down (all
slipping and ending up in a bum sliding position, totally
accidental!) the descent gully to the bottom of the route and
traversed back to the van. A great day escaping the wind.