Carn Dearg Cascade and Waterfall Gully and Ledge Route and Number 4


Day two out with John and today we were consolidating more on grade IV.  We started off on the Carn Dearg cascade (III) which gave a fantastic pitch of ice climbing and gave us a great approach to the main climb.  John participated in a course with Jagged Globe a wee while ago and spent the day doing the first pitch of Waterfall Gully (IV,4).  So today we finished it off.  It was brilliant to climb into this section of the mountain.  I never been up this route,it was a very atmospheric experience, a very worth wile journey.  There was fantastic climbing higher up on the route, after a nice easy section, which traversed out right from a cosy cave belay.  The direct finish to Waterfall Gully (VI,6) looks well cool, not in condition but a brilliant feature, keen to try that next year if it comes in conditions.  We joined Ledge Route above the crux section so ditched the rope and rack and soloed up to the top.  Which amazing views and such a clear day we pressed onto the summit, passing many other out enjoying a spot of Good Friday climbing.  Weather is looking good for the weekend, snow is stabilising and conditions are good.  Make sure you get up early, its going to be busy!