A week of Alpine rock
With a week off between Part 1 and 2 of our Alpine Training, I teamed up with fellow trainee guide Jack Geldard for some rock climbing and acclimatization.
Our first day we decided on a sport climb in the mountains and headed up onto Brevant and climbed the brilliant 8 pitch La Fin de Babylone (TD+ 6c) of the South face. I remembered how to climb granite with sun on my back so I was keen for more routes in the mountains but with less bolts and more trad gear.
Day two we climbed on the Red Pillar on Aiguille de Blaitiere. We opted for Majouette Thatcher (TD+ 6b+)...in British money we thought it was E3 6a. Superb route with 5 brilliant pitches after an 1.5 hour walk in. (no pics from the first couple of days)
Day 3 we climbed on the South Face of Aiguille du Midi. We climbed the Contamine Route given ED1 6c+. In british money, we thought E4 6b, it was a fight.
After 3 days of sore feet in climbing shoes, we ditched the torture devices and went mountaineering with Emily on the Clocher Ridge (PD+ 4a). A great mountaineering ridge which is a brilliant introduction to the Alps. I suspect I will work on that route quite a lot.
Day four Jack and I went back to the Blaitiere and climbed the classic L'eau rance d'arabie (TD+ 6b), probs around E2 5c. 8 superb pitches of pristine granite cracks and a few testing slab for good measure. A great day out.
To conclude the week, Jack, Emily and I teamed up with Kenny for a day on the mountian bikes which was brilliant fun up at Le Tour. Lift assisted Mountain Biking...what's not to like!?
Now for Alpine training Part 2...
Our first day we decided on a sport climb in the mountains and headed up onto Brevant and climbed the brilliant 8 pitch La Fin de Babylone (TD+ 6c) of the South face. I remembered how to climb granite with sun on my back so I was keen for more routes in the mountains but with less bolts and more trad gear.
Day two we climbed on the Red Pillar on Aiguille de Blaitiere. We opted for Majouette Thatcher (TD+ 6b+)...in British money we thought it was E3 6a. Superb route with 5 brilliant pitches after an 1.5 hour walk in. (no pics from the first couple of days)
Day 3 we climbed on the South Face of Aiguille du Midi. We climbed the Contamine Route given ED1 6c+. In british money, we thought E4 6b, it was a fight.
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| Jack on the crux pitch of Contamine |
After 3 days of sore feet in climbing shoes, we ditched the torture devices and went mountaineering with Emily on the Clocher Ridge (PD+ 4a). A great mountaineering ridge which is a brilliant introduction to the Alps. I suspect I will work on that route quite a lot.
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| Mont Bianco, Emily and Jack...cruising. |
Day four Jack and I went back to the Blaitiere and climbed the classic L'eau rance d'arabie (TD+ 6b), probs around E2 5c. 8 superb pitches of pristine granite cracks and a few testing slab for good measure. A great day out.
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| Pitch... |
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| ...after pitch... |
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| ...after pitch of excellent climbing. Superb Route MT |
Now for Alpine training Part 2...