I have just returned to Wales after spending 5 days doing my MIC Training with Plas y Brenin. We had quite a changeable week of weather. The first 3 days were good but then we had an uber thaw. John, Ewan, Tom, Stu and I climbed Ledge Route (II). The second day Tom, Phil and I climbed Cutlass (VI,7) and on the 3rd day Tom, Phil and I climbed Original Route (IV,5) on Summit Buttress in Stob Coire nan lochain. fouth day we went up to Anoach Mor and on the final day we went up and down Zig Zags on Gearr Aonach.

Today was my first day back in Scotland so John, Johnny and I shot up the Ben for some climbing. As the winds were high we opted for a lowish route so we went on Route 1 (VI,6) on Carn Dearg Buttress. Its a great route with a really tricky top pitch. Dave and James were on Cutlass, another great low level option. Several other teams were out too.

The last 3 weeks have been spent in North Wales doing an induction to work at Plas y Brenin. Throughout the 3 weeks we went mountaineering in Ogwen Valley, did BMC Fundamental course, rock climbing on Idwal Slabs (clearing snow off the ledges), Holyhead Mountain (in t shirts) and several single pitch crags dotted around. We went sea kayaking around Anglesey and lots of other bits and pieces. One more week of training, then start work!

I have started working for Plas Y Brenin in Snowdonia. I am here until the end of October.

This morning John and I went up Ben Nevis to see what conditions were looking like. I had mixed in mind but on arrival all the buttresses were totally stripped! Another team were up to do Darth Vader but on arrival realised it was a no go. We got on Thompsons route, I have climbed this before so John took the rack and headed up. The ice was very mushy and slushy, not the best conditions I've had so far this season. On the way down Mike was heading up Thompsons, the team who headed for Darth went on Gremlin's, another team headed for either Green Gully or Number 3 Gully Buttress. We were back in Nevis Sport for a brew at 1.30. Heading to the Ice Factor for another session now.

Today John and I headed up into Ben Nevis's north face. We headed up to Trident Buttress to climb The Slab Climb (VI,7). This is an excellent route in great condition at the moment. Gear is really good when its needed. We climbed the route in 3 pitches and then traversed off into number 4 gully. We got back to the bags at 1pm so we went and climbed Wendigo (IV,4) on Creag Coire na Ciste. This also was an excellent route which we also did in 3 pitches. All the mixed routes looked good high up on the crag. Other teams on Green Gully, Tower Ridge, North Gully, Jubilee Climb, Gargoyle Wall, Thompsons Route and many more over near Observatory Ridge Area. Ken was out on a route near to us.

I have been up to do this classic Cold Climb on Ben Nevis many times but have always been beaten to it. Not today though. Jamie and I had a super early start and got to the route before anybody else! Unfortunately the visibility was very poor but the ice was superb. Great for climbing on, not very helpful for protection though. The steep pitches felt very run out! And to top it off Jamie's crampon came off on the Rouge Pitch! It went the full distance so we proceeded with Jamie only climbing with one crampon. Step cutting is actually quite good fun on steep ice! Despite this slight draw back we topped out in good time but had to walk down the red burn instead of going down number 4 like everyone else.

Today I was up early for first light in Glencoe. The views and morning colours were spectacular. As yesterday the crags were looking great. Several teams on Dorsal Arete again, a team had a look in Twisting Gully but decided it hadnt consolidated enough so they retreated.