Gogarth




After a nice relaxed start Dan and I headed out to Upper Tier of Gogarth, armed with fizzy drinks and junk food. Our first port of call was UFO (E2 5b/c). I strung the first two pitches together which make a much nicer pitch and a comfortable belay, Dan went on and finished the last pitch. After this we nipped back down and Dan led up the Strand (E2 5c), a route he's had his eye on for a while. I had never done it either and it was such a great line. After abbing off we strolled over to Strike (E4 6a). I led up to the abseil tat, just before arriving I took a lob. I learnt that Blair's beta was right, 'don't try and pull into the niche'. Unfortunately I did try and got spat off. I got back on then finished it off. A great day but a little bit chilly. The rock was perfect!


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Snake and Ladders


Today's climbing was ruled out by the constant rain which had spread over North Wales. So instead John and I went for an adventure in the slate quarries. We had heard about a journey called Snakes and Ladders by various folk. Its given HVS but the climbing is never difficult. The scary bits are climbing up the ancient ladders and moving over loose slate and rubble. The route goes through all of the main climbing areas, through tunnels, up ladders, down steep rock. I did feel a little short changed as there were no snakes. Lost world was very cool, honestly felt like being in Jurassic Park. A great couple of hours out when its raining.




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Restricted climbing



Yesterday was looking wet and drizzly so Blair and I met up with Calum and and Phil for some sport climbing at LPT over on the Great Orme. I climbed Kaffe Fasset (6b) to warm up then had a couple of goes on Ive Been a Bad Bad Boy (7c+) before heading up to the cave for some bouldering. Today John and I headed over to Gogarth to climb some routes which are usually banned due to bird restrictions. We started off by abbing into Mousetrap Zawn and climbed Mouse Trap (E2 5b) A fantastic route with some amazing rock formations. After topping out we headed over to Red Wall and undertook the spooky abseil to the bottom of fantasia (E3 5c) I led the first pitch and John dispatched the second pitch well leaving me feeling pumped and tired! A great day on the coast with fantastic climbing. Cant wait to get back out there.






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Advanced Scrambling




This week I have been working on an Advanced Scrambling course. The group of six all had different aims and aspirations which meant we had alot to cover. The forecast was fantastic and it meant we were able to get on all sorts of classic and remote scrambles. On day 1 we went into Ogwen and climbed up the False Gribin Ridge and then down Seniors Ridge (Grade 1*), non are particularly trick but provided the group the opportunity to test out their feet before trying something harder. Day two we went back into Ogwen and climbed the East Ridge of Y Garn (Grade 2**), introduction of rope work was on the cards today. Day three we broke down the group and I took two up Dolman Ridge (Grade 3***) on Glyder Fach, again in Ogwen. Unfortunately the weather was unpleasant but we did have a great day and finished it off by descending Bristly Ridge (Grade 1***). Day 4 we climbed Sub-Cneifion Rib (VD**), Cneifion Arete (Grade 3***) finishing down the False Gribbon and our final day was up Clogwyn y Persons Arete (Grade 3***) and down over the Crib Goch Traverse (Grade 1***). Not bad for a weeks work, 20 stars in 5 days!


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Climbing at Clwyd
Today Dan and I headed East in a bid to escape all the rain in the mountains. We opted for Craig-y-Forwen (Worlds End). Unfortunatly we were only able to escape the rain for short periods of time, just enough for us to lead a route and then second in the rain. We started off on Finer Feelings (HVS 5a) which is a fantastic little route which Dan led. It incorporates great climbing and also has fantastic protection. I then went on to lead Tearg Wall (E2 5c) which has a fantastic long reach for a jug. Again the rain came in so we had to have a little break under the crag. I then went on to lead Crystal (E1 5b) which wasnt that great, a one move wonder. After this (and more showers) I tried Ego Beaver (E2 6b) but was denied by the rain. After a couple of wet attempts we decided to call it a day!
Adventure sports for families
This was a weeks adventure with several different families from all over the county. After a little time getting to know each other we came up for an action plan for the week. Rock climbing, Mountain Walking, Gorge Walking, Kayaking and Canoeing and to finish off we went orienteering. A wide range of activities alowed the group to bond very well and realise what activity they wish to persue. Mostly wanted to become rock climbers.
Afternoon slate hit



After quite an action packed day yesterday, Blair and I opted for a slightly later start and also somewhere without an hour drive! The slate was the only option! I have been wanting to do The Mau Mau (E4 6a) for quite a while so Blair was happy to hold my ropes. I warmed up on German Schoolgirl (E2 5c), a super route with only one hard section at the start (easy if your tall). Then Blair had a few goes on True Clip (7b+) and was making some good progress. After he had a few goes we headed round the corner and I led up The Mau Mau. Another brilliant route! After that Blair and I both had a couple more goes on True Clip, Blair getting pretty close to ticking it off. Fingers and rumbling stomachs meant we had to head back to the ranch!

Dindbrin



Today rain was falling in and around Llanberis so John, Blair and I headed East to Clwyd. We opted for the small scar of Dinbren. I started off on Alison (E1 5b) then we all led Traction Trauma (E4 6a) on after the other. Blair and I then both led Climb High (E4 6b), unfortunately I came off during the crux move, the mother of all rock overs! We also climbed several sport routes; Cold Turkey (6c), Technicolour Yawn (7a+), Inaugural Goose Flesh (6c+) and finished on Just Another Route Name (6c). All the climbing is superb but I thought some of the routes were a little blind! Make sure you don't do on a windy day, its pretty exposed!