Today was another fantastic day in the office! Today I was out working with father and son team Alan and Austin. We had lots of options today as Ben Nevis is looking fantastic but with a cold and a sore back in the group we opted for something low down and not too demanding. It turns out that both Alan and Austin are fitter than they think and our next 3 days out will be alot more adventurous. They are keen for Tower Ridge, Thompsons Route (their surname is Thompson) and a day out in Glencoe. Fingers crossed for some nice weather next week for them. Many other teams out enjoying the good conditions. Indicator wall, Sioux Wall, Kenny and Gordon did Italian RH and many other routes were climbed. North Buttress looked fantastic today too with at least one team on it.
Today I was working with a pair from QUB Mountaineering Club who are over from Ireland. Over the last couple of days Coreen and Yo have been doing some winter skills and some grade II climbing. Today they wanted to have a swing around with 2 axes. So today we headed for Ben Nevis as there were lots of options for us to have a look at. We headed into Creag coire na Ciste to see what options we had. There were many teams out today but we opted for Number 3 Gully Buttress (my first ever winter route, back in 2006). This route has some patches of ice and some great mixed terrain which allowed the guys to have an taster of the different styles of climbing. We weren't the only ones on the route, a couple of other teams were making an ascent which made it a nice sociable day. Kenny was working with Gordon and climbed Two Step Corner. Other teams were on Green and Comb Gully and I think a team went up Thompson's. Castle ridge and Ledge route also saw ascents and were reported to be in good condition but a little windy.
Today was my second day working for Abacus Mountain Guides with Brin and Dave. Ben Nevis was much quieter today with nobody ahead of us after our 8am start. Unfortunately we couldn't see a great deal so we weren't sure if we were being followed up. We headed up and climbed Comb Gully (IV,4) which was in great condition. Good ice all the way up. Mike and his team went and climbed Thompson's Route, which sounded fantastic. Teams were on Two Step Corner and Don't Die of Ignorance. Fresh snow had fallen over night and wind slab has been laying in places but our approaches were fine to head up. A great day with two really keen and competent climbers, great weekend!!
Today I was working for Abacus Mountain Guides with Dave and Brin who wanted something around the grade 5 mark. As they haven't been climbing for a while we opted for the Cascade (IV,5) on Ben Nevis. To get onto this we climbed a long pitch of about grade 3 ice below and left of the Cascade. We climbed the Cascade in two pitches then shot over and climbed up Experts Choice (III,4) to find a buried axe belay at the top, thanks Mike. Then followed a nice sociable walk down the Red Burn. The mountain was very busy today, was great to see so many folk out enjoying the weather and conditions. Teams on Glovers, Tower Ridge, Number 2 gully Buttress, Comb Gully Sioux Wall, Strident Edge, Route 1, Ledge Route plus many more. The snow was generally good, seemed to be bonding well but with fresh snowfall due tonight it may well be a little different tomorrow.
Today was one of those days you just don't want to miss. Plenty of snow around, blue skies and very little wind. Makes winter climbing even more enjoyable (apart from the wading through snow and the avalanche risk). Adam and I avoided the wading and the avalanche risk and headed for the Douglas Boulder on Ben Nevis. After yesterdays antic's we were both a little tired so we didn't want anything hard so I took Adam up Jacknife (V,6). Adam has done quite a bit of hard leads in the last few days so was happy for me to do all the tricky bits today, despite being pretty tired myself. Its quite a short route but packs a punch, one long pitch (which can be avoided) to get to the 25m pitch of bridging excitement. Adam then finished up a 5m head wall. The route joins on to the South West Ridge which we descended and wandered down of the mountain for some tea and cakes! Many other teams out; Ledge Route and Tower Ridge got done as did Route 1, Slab Climb, Darth Vader, Sioux Wall, Gargoyle Wall plus many more. Lots of fresh snow around so care needs to be taken.
Today Ken and I had a leisurely start and headed into Aonach Mor East Face. We abseiled in down Morwind and went to the base of Siamese Twin (IV,5). Ken led the first pitch below the main steepening then I took the main pitch up. Didn't feel too steep, so probably only IV,4 at the moment. It got us to the abseil station on Left Twin and we got ourselves back to the bottom of the routes. Wanting to do something a little mixed, we next opted for Lickety Split (IV,5). We were up and over the cornice in 4 pitches, with Ken leading the 1st and 3rd. The second pitch was definitely the crux and felt pretty hard for IV,5. Maybe its IV,6! Anyway, two really good climbs. Surprisingly we had the whole crag to ourselves. We heard some voices but never saw any other climbers. Several skiers were out enjoying the Scottish ski resort conditions too.