The Isle of Skye is looking spectacular

Today was the last day of the Intro Winter Climber course and Chaz, Rob and Ian were keen to push it out today. The thought of a big walk in didn't interest them so we headed to Sgurr a' Chaorachain and opted for North Buttress. We down climbed and lowered down No.5 Gully (I or II) which brought us to our chosen objective of High Domain (IV,6). We climbed the route in 3 pitches giving good interest through out up this turfy groove. The crux was short lived and right at the end of the route, where a crux should be. This was a big grade step for all the guys and they all managed it after some huffing and puffing. It was a great finale to the week and at tea and cakes it was clear that they had enjoyed themselves and the course had met their expectations. Its been fantastic weather up here in the North West. Climbing conditions have been interesting. The turf is bomber but quite dry in places, ice is forming nicely but generally snow cover is thin. As everything is so dry care must be taken with blocks and boulders, some just aren't frozen in. This week I have been working for MoranMountain.

Ian Bringing up Rob and Chaz

Nice ice

Ian leading to glory

On the summit of  Meall Gorm

Great place to top out!

Short walk in, how about 5 seconds..?! Today we went to Meall Gorm for a short approach day and on arrival found some roadside ice. This was perfect for the team to refine their technique and practice some more with ice screws. I set up a couple of ropes and the guys practised climbing grade III and IV ice. After massive improvements to their technique, we made the 10 minute walk in the the base of the brilliant Turquoise Gully (III). One main tricky pitch gave access to some great easy climbing. Ian took over for the last pitch and led the team to glory and we were rewarded by panoramic views and a great finish to the day. Before tea and cakes we all built some abolokov threads and hung off them. Another great day in the North West. Last day tomorrow and the forecast looks great!

Rob happy after leading his block of pitches

Ian enjoying his first winter lead

rob squeeeeezing through the chock stone

Today winds were gusting above 50 and we really felt it. The aim of the day was to have Rob and Ian leading whilst Chaz cleared the gear and focussed on his movement technique. We walked around the Horn's of Beinn Alligin and headed for Deep South Gully (I). This was by far the best grade I gully I have climbed, great atmosphere, fantastic location and really interesting features, it weaves through the mountain to a great finale. Rob block led a few pitches before I took over for a bit of trickier ground before Ian took over and led us to the crest of the horn. A 2 hour descent with some great mountaineering terrain finished our day off nicely. Another new venue for us all. Its great working up here!

Silver Tear not quite there yet

Chaz entering the gully

Who ever gets their screw gate first wins!

Today I was back out with Rob, Ian and Chaz for more winter climbing on their Intro Winter Climbing course. Today we opted for a route out of the wind and headed into Beinn Bhan in Applecross. This gully is a fantastic deep gash in the mountain which led onto the A' Chioch Ridge. Conditions in the gully were ok. A lot of the snow was quite soft and powdery however there was some bomber ice to swing into. The turf was pretty exceptional too. It did feel quite spicy in places so I thought it felt a bit more like grade 3 in the current conditions. We could still do with a bit of a thaw and re-freeze. But as yesterday, the North West is amazing and there are some fantastic mountains up here. I cant believe I haven't spent much time up here!

Today was the first day of an intro winter climbing course for Rob, Ian and Chaz. Today was a bit of a shake down day and skills day. A reminder of how to use axes and crampons, how to not slip, how to stop a slip, use the snow as an anchor and some simple rope work. After a good session we then ascended Access Gully (II) on Fuar Tholl which had fantastic views of the highlands. It was an amazing place to be and this happens to be the first winter route I have got to the top of here in the North West! Every day is going to be unknown territory for me! :) Access Gully was good but lacking some snow near the top. Turf is bomber. It was a great first day for the guys, set them up nicely for the rest of the week.

Nice bit of grade III ice

John enjoying the ice

Abseiling off

Still windy higher up

John finishing the last tricky pitch on North Buttress

Final day for John and we were really psyched for having another good day.  The forecast was for strong south easterly winds increasing with height.  We headed down into Glencoe and headed for North Buttress on Buachaille Etive Mor.  We geared up where the path crosses Great Gully and spotted that the water course was nicely frozen.  I suggested we follow it up and see how high we can get.  So after soloing some grade I ice with a few grade II steps we were blocked by a steep pitch of ice.  We popped a rope on and I dragged the rope to the top.  My North Buttress rack didn't consist of ice screws but they weren't necessary as the ice was like toffee, it was super fun.  And best of all, the wind wasn't getting to us.  After this pitch we traversed onto North Buttress and got stuck into the high winds and mixed climbing.  We climbed all the way to the top of the difficulties which was brilliant and exciting with the strong gusts.  Alot of the snow had been blown off so we were able to use our gloved holds on the rock to make progress on some sections.  We abseiled off passing Nigel and his mate who had decided to call it a day after one pitch.  It was a great end to a great week and I looking forward to getting back out with John in March.  Off to the North-West for the next 3 weeks so will hopefully get some great routes done through work and some amazing days out on my days off.

John catching his breath from the breath taking views

John leading to glory

Solo walker

Windy views

I love Scotland!

Today John and I changed from plan A and went and climbed Ledge Route (II) on Ben Nevis. Thursday blues left us with heavy legs and the resistance from the wind and accumulations of snow made things hard going.  We veered off the old tracks on Ledge Route, seeking out little tricky steps and walls to add a bit of spice to the route before John took over on the second half and led to the top.  We both knew that we had to make the summit push, the views were amazing and the snow combined with strong winds made for an amazing few hours.  Once on the summit we didn't want to leave, we could see out to the Isle of Skye and all the mountains looked fantastic.  The cameras were snapping like a bus load of Japanese tourists.  We only saw one other walker on the tourist route who will have had a fantastic solo day, Rich had his team on the summit just as we were leaving after coming up Coire Leis, they will have also had a priceless day standing on the summit in such fantastic weather.  We caught up with Ken and his client who had ascended Ledge Route behind us for a nice sociable descent down from the half way lochain.  A brilliant day at ...ahem...work.  Snow was blowing all over the place, the upper crags were getting plastered and signs of small avalanches here and there.  Not sure if any other routes got climbed today on Ben Nevis, did see one team heading up left below Comb Buttress, not sure what the were up to.

Today John and I froze our fingers off on the chair lift at Aonach Mor.  The pain was worth it as we were able to rest our legs a little bit by having a shorter 'walk in' day.  Johns third day on was all about ice.  We met Rich and his team at the bottom who were planning Right Twin.  That was good so we still had plan A all to ourselves   We were psyched for Left Twin (III,4).  Then, out of nowhere like some stealth giraffe, Mike strolled past us with sharp elbows and went for our chosen route!  All in good humour though.  Mike decided to abseil down the route so we decided to zip down Easy Gully and check out the rest of the routes.  This would give Mike a chance to get up a pitch.  So John and I built a snow bollard and abseiled in to find plenty of snow which was stable where we walked/waded.  There was plenty of ice forming on the Ribbed walls, nothing steep was quite there such as White Shark and Aquafresh but the mixed routes looked good.  Left Twin was in great condition with Siamese Twin nearly there.  There was a team on Stirling Bridge and I think that was it.  John led the last pitch up to the cornice via a nice little mixed step which Mike and his client put tracks through.  A fantastic day followed by some great soup and coffee in the cafe.