Back to work today after two days of great climbing.  Today I took Simon, James and Eric up into Fuar Tholl for a skills day.  This easily accessible coire didn't not give us shelter from the rain, to be honest there wasn't many places that would have.  Despite the dampness we were able to make good use of axes and crampons as well as digging around in the snow to learn a little more about the winter environment.  To finish the day we ascended a short gully and descended a short ridge to get the team into the zone on technical terrain.  Despite the winds and rain the team soaked up some good knowledge which will set them up for the rest of the week.

A day off was what I really needed but with last weeks forecast and next weeks forecast there was no way I was going to stay indoors on this prime day.  So a 5.15am departure from Beinn Eighe car park saw Murdoch and I walking the round to the Triple Buttresses.  I cant even remember my last day off so to say I was tired was an underestimate.  I barely said a word on the walk in, I was floating in and out of a dream world all the way in.  At the base of Central Buttress (VI,7) I looked up and saw what we had in hand, for a couple of seconds I had hoped I had forgotten my crampons.  As I had climbed the crux yesterday (and I was shattered) I was happy for Murdoch to have all the harder pitches but it turned out for the first 2 3rds of the route I had all the trickier pitches and Murdoch got the ledge shuffelling pitches.  I had to dig deep.  Fortunately we knew what the crux was so I ran out a small pitch and handed the rack over....and I was glad of it.  Watching Murdoch wedged in a body width crack was both funny and cringe worthy.  I was not looking forward to the effort that I was going to have to put in.  Standing at the next belay was a relief but to be honest I wanted to be back in bed.  The route didn't let up much or maybe I was just very tired on easy ground, I'm not sure but it felt hard.  We topped out onto a white plateau and made the steep descent back down to the comfort of the car where I had a quick drink and shot off to meet my clients for the coming week.  So another 5 days at work then I think I better take a day off!  All great fun though and really pleased I didn't pretend to forget my crampons!  Still not got round to picking up a camera so no pics unfortunately.  The mountain was in great condition, by the looks of things any mixed route would go.  We had a team behind us on the route and a couple of other teams enjoying the great conditions.

Me getting involved in the crux (photo John Orr)

Me still involved (photo The Orr-icle)

After a week of wild weather at work I was keen for a shorter day out climbing.  Murdoch and John were well psyched and we walked into Coire an Lochain in the Northern Corries.  We made swift time into the corrie despite being in very limited visibility and opted for number 1 buttress.  Because it was the closest.  None of us had done Auricle (VI,7) so Murdoch racked up for the 1st pitch and despatched it quickly whilst John and I shivered.  Still recovering from a knee injury, Murdoch didn't fancy the crux pitch so that fell to me with John cleaning up the route with the top.  Super cold conditions with plenty of snow on the routes which made it a dream to climb.  Not too much clearing to be done and fortunately the cracks we clean.  A super day out and just what I needed.

Today was the final day for this weeks winter climbing work and I was keen to finish with a bang. Beinn Eighe delivered the brilliant East Buttress (IV,5). The two hour walk in enabled us to view the whole triple buttress in all its might. I had seen the place in photos but never ventured here before. To visit here for a day at work was a dream come true. Unfortunately Simon and I lost Lloyd on the walk in (not literally, he was feeling ill) so Simon and I quested on. From leaving the car, it took us 4 hours to make tracks on the first pitch and we weren't exactly moving slow. The route was amazing. Great sustained climbing at grade 4 with a nice crux section at the top which led to a nice scramble to finish. We were blessed with fine views out to sea before being swamped in snow showers and cloud. From the top of the route it was only 1 hour 20 mins back to the car where we found Lloyd with the music pumping. After he had a sleep he went for a wee boulder and tried to find a bit of dry tooling but to no prevail. A great end to a great week working for Martin Moran.

Camera has been placed in a coffin, it has served me well.  I shall try and replace when i'm not climbing, not sure when that will be though...

After yesterdays 10 hour session on the hill and dealing with some of the strongest winds I've been out in, we opted for a 9am start and a 8 minute walk in to a dry tooling crag which Martin developed. The aim of the day was to experiment with what axes and crampons can and cant do on rock as well as having a great work out. Simon, Lloyd and Andy all managed to get up the easiest route which they were really pleased with as it equates to a grade V mixed route. I then popped a rope on a harder route where they all put top efforts in but unfortunately unable to keep the lactic acid away and make it too the top. The crag provided so great options for Andy to practice his gear placements and belay building, something he has done little of and aloud Simon and Lloyd to carry out some problem solving.

Big day today, a fine 10 hours on the hill. 126Mph winds recorded on Bealach na Ba. Simon, Lloyd, Andy and I went for a sheltered day on the A' Chioch Traverse (II). With the initial grade I terrain the team moved together alpine style to cover the tricky sections in a safe and efficient manner, including some tricky down climbing. On arrival to the final steep wall Lloyd took over and led a couple of pitches. When the heavens opened...with rain...I took over and led them to the top. That was the easy part done. Now fully exposed to the winds we were barely able to move over the Plateau of Beinn Bhan. Frequently we were blown to the ground turning this day out into quite a serious proposition. We pressed on this time linked together like the forwards in a rugby scum. The wind kept winning the ball and forcing us to the ground. Unable to proceed in this struggle, a quick consultation with the map we made a drastic detour to lower our altitude and escape the winds. Fortunately we were unscaved and all in one piece however we were along way from the car. I left the team and made a long trip round to pick up the car and pick up the team. We were all soaked to the skin, tired and thoroughly enjoyed our exciting day...well I did anyway! Easy day tomorrow maybe?

Simon leading up some great snow

Lloyd getting pummeled on the lead

Simon bring Andy and Lloyd up

Today I was back out with Simon and Lloyd and we also had Andy along. We had very high winds forecast so we headed to Meall Gorm to climb Turquoise Gully (III,4). A short walk in and sheltered crag. The thaw has had a slight effect and removed a lot of snow but actually made the ice really good to climb on, like some sweet toffee. I led the first pitch to get a feel of conditions then I was happy for Simon and Lloyd to lead each other and Andy up the route whilst I soloed just ahead of them. The guys were moving slickly as they both have a good rock climbing backgrounds and dealing with the winter technicalities very well. Gear, good techniques, belays were flowing like clockwork. After topping out into the wind we walked 50m and made our way down (all slipping and ending up in a bum sliding position, totally accidental!) the descent gully to the bottom of the route and traversed back to the van. A great day escaping the wind.

Simon enjoying full on winter

in the cave

Back to work today and work I did! I was out with the Technical climbers today Simon and Lloyd and with the forecast for the week we grabbed our kit and shot off to get a route in before things become extremely hostile. We went to Liathach, another mountain I haven't visited and what a stunning place. Loads of potential ice lines to climb in the super impressive corries. We walked in to Coire Dubh Mor in the driving rain, eventually it turned to driving snow and waded up to the base of George (III,4). The whole route was a total wade fest, progress was slow but the climbing was brilliant and there is a ace tunnel to squeeze through. After topping out on the route we headed up to the summit of Spidean a Choire Leith whilst getting blasted by the wind. From here we headed east and made our way down the south side of Liathach where I ran a few miles to get the car. A great 8 hour day in very hostile conditions.