Murdoch cruising up another E5

Today was a 'one route day' for us as we had to get back to Fort William and go for a swim in the Lochain.  We climbed Sumo (E3 5c) which was a brilliant route up the Far East Wall giving all 3 of us a great pitch.  It was great to see the mountain crags busy with teams on many or the other classics in the coire.  A brilliant location and cant wait to et back here and climb some of the classic routes.

Finally arrived at the lochain

Fortunatly the weather is holding so we decided to cash in on the fantastic mountain cragging Scotland has to offer.  Blair, Nona and I went to Beinn Eighe for a two day trip.  I have only every climbed here in winter, climbing on two of the Triple Buttresses, East Buttress and Central Buttress.  As we had a long walk-in from our night in the Ling Hut, we opted for a route on Eastern Ramparts.  Blair has done most routes so we went for the 2 star routes he hasnt done, firstly Pale Rider (E1 5b) and then Paleface Wall (E3 5c).  After these I headed into my bivi bag where I had the most unpleasant night in the mountains ever!  With a combination of midges and heat!

2nd pitch of Pale Rider

Blair ....smiling!

Blair approaching the crux

Over the last few years of living in and around Fort William, I have climbed in Glen Nevis on many occasions.  One route, Quality Street (E3 6a) has always stood out but I had never been near it for two reasons.  1) It was too hard for me and 2) it hasn't been climbed for years so is very dirty.  So I took it upon myself to abseil down it today and give it a good clean.  Blair read his book as I did all the hard work.  After loosing all the feeling in my legs (and not cleaning the bottom section) I had a wee rest and then went for the lead.  The route was clean but unfortunately I wasn't feeling up to it.  Again my ability (or lack of) let me down.  I felt tired, from cleaning the route, multiple days in the mountains and the temperatures we have been experiences.  But excuses aside, I'm just too weak!  Blair took over and climbed the route clean, and thought it to be hard E3/easy E4.  It was well protected and I should have just committed because I seconded it fine.  I led the top pitch too which was really nice before we abseiled off.  Kenny turned up so tied onto the bottom and had the mother of all top ropes.  Good thing he never fell off. So another brilliant route in Glen Nevis ready to be climbed.

Blair through the crux

Kenny loving the newly cleaned route

Since my trip to Pabbay and Mingulay back in June, I have been undergoing the frustrations of torn intercostal muscles.  Its such a annoying injury as it is very easy to aggravate them so my best remedy was to rest.  Finally I feel that my rest can be put to one side as today when I went climbing they didn't hurt.  Kenny and I drove East, again, to escape the rain in Fort William, again.  We went to the Camel, the brilliant conglomerate crag near Loch Ness.  I was feeling tired after 9 days on the go, on the back of a wedding but as conditions were so good I felt a burst of energy and psyche.  We both started off by climbing Stone of Destiny (6c+) which I was pleased to get, maybe I wasn't as weak as I thought.  Then I climbed Paralysis by Analysis (7a+) after a couple of goes so was pretty pleased with that too!  We finished off with going up Inverarnie Schwarzenegger (7a).  I onsighted this a year or so ago, but couldn't touch it today.  A good day none the less.

Not looking ideal

Climbing in Scotland during the summer months requires a wee bit of driving around, especially if your based in Fort William like I am.  If your not prepared to travel then the next thing you will know is that it will be winter and you have only had a handful of days out on dry rock.  Alot of friends seem to be blaming the weather for not getting out climbing but I disagree.  Usually a drive East will avoid the worst of the West coast weather.  Now, this is not always the case.  Today Blair and I drove  over to the Cairngorm's to find conditions were sub-optimal despite what the forecast said.  Windy, cloudy and a treat of rain.  We bit our bottom lips and walked into Coire nan T-Sneachda, up the Goat Track and into the winds on the plateau.  Our original plan, or Blair's plan, was to climb Cupid's Bow on the central slabs on the Shelterstone.  The threat of rain put us off that idea.  Desperate slab climbing in the rain....no thanks.  Also not wanting to get committed onto a big route we opted for a nice wee route called the Devil's Alternative (E1 5a).  The first ascensionist was Allen Fyffe, Blair's dad!  The climbing was fairly easy but felt quite exiting in the on and off rain.  As the weather showed no signs of improving we packed up and went for an orange juice in Aviemore because the electricity was off at the Fyffe residence.

Blair pulling out on wet slopers

Blair on the 4th pitch

Chalk didnt stay on my hands for very long

Nice and dry view from Creag Dubh

Believe it on not, rain was falling in Fort William so Kenny and I headed east for some sunshine.  On arrival to Creag Dubh, it was dry, breezy and ideal.  We went up to Sprawl Wall first and I climbed Jump So High E2 5c), the best pitch on the crag!  Kenny then tried Instant Lemon (E3 5c) but felt it was a little too serious to start.  We though it was definitely a ankle breaker so left it as we want to spend the next few month being able to climb!  Instead Kenny climbed Over The Hill Variation (E3 5c) on Main Wall.  Deziree and Mark were chilling out on Inbred (HVS 5a) before heading onto L.M.F (E1 5b) which Kenny and I quickly followed them up as we had to shoot off.  On the drive back we hit the rain as we got back to Fort William....what a surprise.  Looks like another drive Eastwards tomorrow!

Kenny going for it on Over The Hill V

Mark abseiling all over Kenny! Tut tut! ;p

A quiet North Face

How to look cool in the mountains!

Jane didn't want to push the stack over

Chilly on top

Today I was back on Ben Nevis and out with Jane.  Jane has never been into the mountains before, never climbed, scrambled or been exposed to heights.  The aim was to summit Ben Nevis but not via the tourist route.  After a bit of humming and hawing, we went for Ledge Route.  Now as we walked in, Jane was nervous, anxious and thought her arms were going to fall off because they were cold..! ;)  Now when we topped out of Ledge Route, there was a 'Is that it?!' from Jane.  Turns out, a true natural at climbing, heights don't phase her and general fitness is far better than she thought.  I have discovered, that in my climbing one of the main things that hold me back from pushing myself is my disbelief in my ability.  The 'head game' of climbing has always been a challenge and is something (most) climbers experience.  Some climbers are blessed with the ability forget about the fear, however alot of us have to work hard to keep it away, that's one of the many characteristics that really draws me to climbing.  I think fear is a healthy trait to have whilst climbing, its what keeps us alive.

Very different weather on the top

A beautiful place to climb

After getting back from Skye last night, Blair, Nona and I went for a hit over on the Shelterstone over in the Cairngorms.  Lots of time spent in a car recently but today I got to sit in the back, stretch out and relax.  Legs were feeling good after 5 days on Skye and excitement was high for another adventure up this colossal face.  We block led the route so we all had a few pitches each, Blair had unfinished business on one pitch which he resolved.  Haystack (E3 5c) is such a great route with pretty much every pitch having a special experience.  We had a couple of other teams on Steeple which we met where the routes shared a pitch and again at the top.  Blair being Blair, we couldn't walk back without touching the snow, looking at the layers and having a little 'ski' down it!  impressive snow feature to be honest.

Nona and Blair enjoying the easy (hard) initial pitches

Dr Snow doing his thing!

Trainer skiing in July