Today was all about climbing another
iconic piece of rock. This time I was out with Al and James and they
wanted to climb the Inaccessible Pinnacle, followed by some exciting ridge
walking. As usual the Inaccessible Pinnacle went with no problems. We had one
team ahead of them but gave them plenty of space. We all abseiled
off the Pinn and made our way along the fantastic ridge leading to
Sgurr na Banadich. From the summit we descended down Sgurr nan
Gebhar ridge. I have never done this and it was absolutely
fantastic. It looks great from a distance and it really is great to
descend. Because it is off the main ridge and isn't as popular as
other sections, it is a wee bit green and slimy. Other than that,
its brilliant. We headed due west off the final peak which was
pretty steady to get down and lead to a great wee scree run. Another
brilliant day learning a new part of the Cuillin. For the last wee while I have been working for Skye Guides.
Today was unfortunately another poor
weather day but we had a great day climbing the Cioch. Mick had seen
the Cioch on the TV on a program called Coast and became inspired to
climb it. He had no climbing experience but was super keen. The
Cioch Corner (Diff) was utterly desperate but we both managed to get
up without any falls. Everything was just so greasy and very trick
some. On the top of the Cioch we found two plastic swords so Mick
re-enacted the classic highlander moment as I snapped away with his
camera. A great day out in the Cuillin and climbing such an iconic
piece of rock. The rain cleared for the walk out and we even saw
some sunshine.
| Me on Snowflake Photo credit Nadir Khan |
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| Murdoch ready for his 8a |
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| Murdoch cooling down on Snowflake |
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| Murdoch on the Prow |
Back to work today and the choice of venue was the sea cliffs of Elgol. I took the Younger family, all of whom have never climbed on rock. Sophie, Malcolm, Elizer and Annabel all kept hopes high as we walked in through the rain and climbed Fertility Right (Severe) in the rain. Fortunately the rain subsided and the rock dried super quickly some everyone climbed Fertility Left (VS 4c) and we finished on one of the classics of the crag Jamie Jampot (VS 4c). Unsurprisingly we had the crag to ourselves, we had a great view of the Cuillin and turned out to be a brilliant day. Its hard not to love climbing when you climb at Elgol!
With the weather being horrendous on the west coast, I headed over to the sunny side of the country to meet up with Murdoch, Gaz and Andy for some sport climbing. We went to Brin rock, a very exposed crag, where we were getting a blasting from the full force of the wind. I warmed up on Captains of Crush (6c) which is a great little route and then made a speedy onsight of The One and Only (7a). It had to be speedy as I only had 3 minutes to climb before a band of rain hit us. I climbed through the crux quickly but got massively pumped but fortunately there was a good rest to use before the final moves and clipping the chain. A really good steep route on fingery holds. I then had a couple of goes on Pink Wall (7b) which is just amazing climbing. Unfortunately I didn't get it but I think it will go in another trip. Shame its so far away! I finished off by climbing The One and Only again but was a bit pumped so had a brief rest on the way up. Another new crag for me with more fantastic sport climbing! Here's a picture of me on The One and Only from Murdoch's camera.
A slightly disappointing day today due to uncontrollable circumstances. I was out with Nigel who was keen to summit the Northern 3 Munros on Skye. Sgurr nan Gillean, Am Basteir and Bruach na Frithe. We knew from the off set it was to be windy, grass was pushed horizontal, streams were spraying water onto us as we walked by, my sun glasses were blow off my head and taken to the depths below. On arrival to the base of Sgurr nan Gillean, the wind was strong, accelerated over the col, we pressed on but only to be blown to the ground. We were not going up today. We salvaged the day by summiting Bruach na Frithe and left Am Bastier for a calmer day. Rain on the ridge is manageable, strong gust on the ridge is playing with fire! I didn't want to get burnt! As disappointing it is to bail out of an objective, it is good to come back in one piece knowing that the mountain will be there for an ascent another time.
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| Nigel enjoying a bit of shelter |
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| Looks nice but the wind was howling through |
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| Sunny over there but not here |
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| No view on our fisrt peak |
| Best view of the 2 days |
After an absence of ridge traverses,
today I was back up there. We made another successful two day
traverse. Unfortunately the weather was less than optimal.
Visibility on the tops was down between 10m-50m, sometimes more, but
mostly less. The first day was damp and dank, meaning a bypass on
the TD Gap and Kings chimney. The Inn Pinn went fine. We bivied
near Sgurr a Ghreadaidh after a full day of moving steadily through
the mist and moisture. We were blessed with a peaceful and dry night
but woke to mist and the threat of rain. After 10 minutes if setting
off it rained...and it did so all day. The rock was slimy, simple
sections became icy ponds, slabs became death traps. Our eyes were
on stalks and our concentration levels became almost tiring. We
pressed on, slowly and surely, the thought of bailing was ever
present but I kept it locked down. Safety was my main concern, Andy
and Pete were still smiling and happy to make progress. We pressed
on. The intensity of the rain increased and decreased throughout the
day, boots were full of water, gloves were soaked and the rope
doubled its weight with the water. Our finishing point was the
Sligahan where we were greeted with a round of applause, a round of
beer and a round of whiskey. It was worth it! Not one view from any
of the summits. The magic of the Cuillin was hidden from us this
time. I don't need to put too many photos up because it was just
grey!
| Evening clearing |
| Home sweet home |






