Andy feeling chilly but loving the climbing

Today we had a break in the weather so Andy and I got an early start and snatched some routes on the amazing sea cliffs on Skye.  First we went to Kilt Rock hoping it would be sheltered by the winds but unfortunately not.  We climbed Clandestine (VS 4c) which is a fantastic rising traverse line on good holds, excellent gear and an airy position.  Unfortunately it was too cold to stay here, full exposure to the wind was a bit chilly.  We jumped in the car and hit Staffin Slip Area which was way more sheltered and very pleasant.  We jammed our way up Lats up a Drainpipe (HVS 5a) and Lateral Thinking (E1 5b) giving Andy plenty of scabs on the back of his hands as its mainly about the hand jams.  The foretasted down pore arrived at 2pm so we bailed to the car and onto Portree for coffee and a massive slice of cake!  Yum!

Looks like another Traverse Course is to be dampened by the weather this week.  It looks to be a case of 'a day at a time'.  Today was a very wet day so Andy and I opted for the brilliant Pinnacle Ridge leading us on to Sgurr na Gillean.  As we were quite rapid we went on to the greasy Am Basteir and then down King Cave Chimney just to add to the excitement and wetness.  Andy has no desire to go bagging Munro's so we didn't go up Bruach na Frithe just for the sake of it...we went down for a cup of tea instead!

A spot of shelter in Kings Cave

2 down

Finally a break in the weather for a traverse.  I was out with Katya, Sam and Aide, a team I had last winter and they were keen as mustard for a ridge traverse.  Only committing 2 days it had to be good weather and they were full of good luck.  A beautiful first day, a clear bivi and some proper Scottish weather on the 2nd afternoon.  Thank god for the 5am start!  I'll let the photo's do the talking.

In Pinn

6 down

Room with a view

Morning has broken

On it again

Getting there

Happy team on the final summit, a great 2 days!

Donald on Grey Panther

Great views from the belay

Donald moving in from the arête

Donald and I managed to snatch a couple of hours to go rock climbing today and we opted for a sunny Kilt Rock.  I've climbed here quite alot but Donald hasn't so he led up the uber classic Grey Panther (E1 5b), a world class route for sure!  I then led up Edge of Beyond (E2 5c) which has a wild traverse onto an airy arête but again is a super line to climb.  Unfortunately Donald had to head south so we had to call it a day but was a great laugh with some great climbing.  Traverse tomorrow!

Nice commute to work

Team loving the boat ride in

A bit of rain doesn't dampen moral

Second day with Rory, Phil, Rupert and Mark.  Unfortunately Rupert was unable to join us on the hill, however he played a key part to the logistics by doing a wee bit of driving to make our life a bit easier.  Today was started by a high speed rib from Elgol into Loch Coruisk where we started the longest climb in the uk.  750m of amazing slab climbing.  I had never done this route before so it was great to work with Donald who has ascended this route several times and found all the best sections.  The team became slab masters by the end of this and were moving so well we went on to summit Sgurr nan Eag after we topped out on Sgurr Dubh Mor.  Another brilliant day and some new territory for me.  The boat ride in cant help but put a smile on your face.  The best way to start any day!

Looong way down

No need for a caption here

Endless fun!

Donald leading the team up super grippy rock!

Anything goes apparently!

Summit

Rupert trying to be Sean Connery.

Rupert and Rory on getting a true Skye experience

Clouds lifting

Today was definitely in the top 5 days I've had on the Isle of Skye to date.  Fantastic clients, fantastic route, improving weather and all guided with a brilliant friend.  Donald and I took out Rory, Phil, Mark and Rupert who were all a brilliant laugh and genuinely great company on the hill.  These guys absorbed all the information Donald and I could throw at them and were thirsty for more.  We completed the Coire Lagan Round, a super route taking in some of Skye's most iconic pieces of rock.  The Cioch, Sgurr Alasdair, Skye's highest peak, Hart's (Collies) Ledge, An Stac and finished the day on the In Pinn in fantastic sunshine.  What a day!

Rory Flexing, Rupert rubbing!?

An Stac...amazing climbing

Our route...right to left

Top of the Inaccessible Pinnacle

Alan and Annie ready for action

Today was the final day with the Simpson’s and Alan wanted his partner Annie out today so we lowered the technicality and distance of the day and walked up past the fairy pools and climbed on to Sgurr an Fheadain via its nice grade 1.5 North West ridge.  Again the weather was kind and we managed to avoid all rain which made Annie really glad she came out.  Turns out Annie has caught the climbing bug, she says it beats walking across flat bogs and knee deep heather.  So true. This week I have been working for Skye Guides.

Jules and Andrew cruising up the ridge

Jules picking out harder options

Andrew enjoying the escape into the mountains

Everyone enjoying the dry rock

The task in hand

the finest mountaineering route in the UK?

Today Alan wanted a rest day so Jules, Andrew and I made a full traverse of the Clachglas - BlaBheinn traverse.  As the boys are super active orienteering competitors we were able to move over the ridge at a rapid pace making good time for a complete round trip to the car.  There were two other teams in our wake who had also made a good choice as we only had a short spell of rain and had some pretty good views.

Hero shots

It doesnt get much better! 4 star route

Nearly there

There were no views but we went to all the summits