Matterhorn North Face
The Horn
I am writing this post as Tony is scrubbing the apartment clean because we have decided to end our Alpine trip a week early due to the upcoming poor weather.  Now watching Tony do all the cleaning isn't the only reason we are finishing the trip on a high.  My highlight of the trip was climbing the Matterhorn (4478m), my highest peak to date, via its North Face, the Schmidt Route (TD+).  An iconic mountain which has called out to me ever since I had set eyes on it and it was great to climb it.

Murdoch and Tony set for 5 hours of walking
Our success on this mountain was due to a failure on the Grande Jorasses where Tony, Murdoch and I walked for 5 hours from the Montenvers train station to our bivi site.  After 40 minutes of digging to make a suitable site we scoped out the base of our objective, the Demaison/Gousseault (ED2) and then settled down for a cold, unsettled sleep.  Unfortunately everything didn't go to plan and after 3 pitches we decided to call it a day as time had disappeared before our tired and heavy eyes.  We didn't want to be pushed for time to say the least.

Team shot at 8.30 at the Hornli Hut (Photo:Tony's camera)
So another failure on the Grande Jorasses for me.  It seems when I fail on this mountain, I have success elsewhere.  Last time I failed here on the Croz Spur I ended up climbing the Eiger North Face.  This time success on the the Matterhorn.
Murdoch (right) and I somewhere on the route (Photo: Tony)
On arriving in Zermatt we took the ski lifts up and made the 3 hour walk to the Hornli Hut from Trockener Steg station.  On arrival to the Hornli Hut we realised that we would not have the face or the summit to ourselves, it was the weekend after all.  Infact there were about 12 other teams, that's over 24 climbers!  Not a pleasant number to be involved with.  So we decided to just get going after a rest and some food.  We left in darkness just before 20.30.  Conditions were perfect, not a breath of wind and not another climber out of bed.  We initially soloed until we got too the first tricky bit.  From there Tony led the first section, I led the middle section and Murdoch took us to the Zmutt Ridge.
Murdoch climbing to my belay before he takes over to the Zmutt Ridge
We each only belayed once, when we ran out of gear, just moving together on our single rope, placing gear now and again.  After 7 hours of climbing we found ourselves at the top in darkness with only the surrounding glow from the street lights 2km away.
Happy on the summit (my camera, 8th attempt)
It was perfect, we didn't get clogged up in other peoples ropes, we didn't get hit by ice and we had all the time in the world.  We did want sunrise on the summit but unfortunately we were 3 hours early so we decided to make our way down.  A friend had said 'don't underestimate the descent'.  He was right.  It was long, very long,  Especially after climbing the 1100m route after no sleep and in the dark.
Murdoch and Tony happy to be at the Solvay Hut

Murdoch not quite keeping his eyelides open in the Solvay hut
We ate and drank and then off we went.  The descent was a bit off a blur for all of us, lack of sleep made for a slow and careful descent to the Solvay Hut at 4003m.  We arrived at the hut at sunrise and squeezed inside and made a well needed brew.
Tony and I just about staying awake
Forcing our eyelids open, we knew we couldn't wait around, so after burning our lips and tongues on the boiling tea, we looked as lively as we could and continued down to the Hornli Hut where we had stashed our sleeping kit and some water.  With a spring in our stride, or maybe a fatigue limp, we made our way down to the lift and onto Zermatt for a milkshake and back to our apartment for pizza and beers.  Over all its been a great trip, a usual Alpine trip for me, some failures, some successes, some good weather and some bad, good partners, good food and needing a rest when I get home.  Bring on winter (not in the next couple of days though)!

Murdoch and I descending the Hornli Ridge (Photo: Tony)
Packing up after a successful ascent (not our tents) (Photo: Tony)
Some longer winter preperation
Easy climbing done, warm jackets on.
Me passing the large chockstone on amazing ice
Tony on the last climbing pitch before more easy romping
Today we opted for a half day for some reason.  We topped out on the 1000m Eugster Couloir Direct  route at 10.30 am.  No we didn't get the lift up, we just set off super early.  We opted for a bivi near the Midi Plan station, we settled in our sleeping bags at 6.30pm trying to get some sleep.  This didn't happen for me but I did count 25 shooting stars and wished for Tony's snoring to stop.  At 3am my wish came true.  So Murdoch, Tony and I brewed up at 3am and wandered over to the route.  From the start we made swift progress up the initial snow slopes to the main section of climbing.  4 or 5 pitches of Scottish 5/6.  6 hours after starting the route we arrived at the Aguille du Midi lift station and headed down for lunch.  It was a brilliant route, Murdoch's first Grande Course, just a shame the difficulties were for only a few pitches.  Now we rest for a day and seek out a route of a more sustained nature...
Murdoch and I with chamonix in the background
Murdoch and his extra long arm
Murdoch

 If you want to climb in Scotland or climb winter routes then click here.

Sorry Murdoch.  I couldn't resist
Tony and I not paying attention to Murdoch


Winter preperation
Non walking approach
Not stellar weather but still very good
So I'm currently out in the Alps doing a little bit of winter preparation as conditions are very good out here at the moment.  We arrived yesterday so we opted for a short 'Scottish Style' route on Aguille Du Midi.  Now, given this is a very short approach (A lift then 4 abseils off the lift station) and it was the weekend, we were not the only one's with this idea.  So choice 1 was out of the question but we found space on the brilliant Vent Du Dragon (TD-).  I had done this route in the past but in terrible conditions.  Today was bliss compared to when I last did it.  The ice was great and fat, there wasn't waist deep snow and the mixed sections were very accommodating.  Felt like Scottish 6 which is about right.  It felt like Scottish 7 last time.  We topped out onto the Cosmiques Arete and up to the lift for a leisurely afternoon.  Time to plan next route.

Lots of teams seeking out good conditions
Murdoch remembering how to ice climb
Tony, Murdoch and I on the Cosmiques Arete
Murdoch running up the crux of the CA
Great alpine visions
Wedding bells were ringing at 3800m


Click here to check out options for your winter
Winter is around the corner
Blizzards still mean fun in Glencoe.
Solitude in the Cuillins, Isle of Skye

Having come back from America's rock climbing road trip, I am feeling the urge to swing ice axes, dig for cracks, shiver on belays and see the mountains come alive with snow.  Infact, I believe there has been a small amounts of snow on the tops already.
Mountaineering the North West Highlands

Blizzards on Beinn Eighe
So I'm hoping for a great winter of lots of walking, mountaineering and climbing.  I'm looking forward to climbing new routes, classic repeats and hard mixed lines.  I love visiting new areas and crag and summits I haven't been on so the next while will be spent looking through guidebooks and scanning some maps and making sure partners are psyched.
Mixed climbing, Murdoch on Great Overhanging Buttress VI,7 on Beinn Bhan

Learning to lead in Glencoe
I believe pre planning helps to have a successful winter, make time to enjoy the mountains as you'll miss out if you don't.  Make tick lists and be open to changeable conditions, try not to be too obsessed with one particular route.  Any day in the winter mountains will be a good one.
Happy team on top of North East Buttress IV,4, Ben Nevis
New routing in Norway

Click here to check out the Winter Page to get the ideas.

Mountaineering on the Forcan Ridge


Perfect weather on An Teallach

Does it get much better than this?







America - too many photo's to deal with
I am now back from one of the best climbing trips I have ever had.  The trip originally was meant to be based in Yosemite for the month but after a week of moving campsite every morning we decided to go on a road trip instead.  So from Yosemite we headed to Tuolumne, Mammoth, Zion (Amazing place), Moab, Indian Creek and Royal Arches National park.  Here are a few photo's from the trip.  We climbed pretty much every day so feeling pretty broken now.  Not the best prep for winter so I'm scooting off to the Alps on Friday to get back on some snow and ice.
Guy high up in Tuolume...amazing granite

The Valley from Nutcracker

Donald and I on top of Castleton Tower in Utar

Me rapping off Castleton Tower

Warm up crack at Indian Creek.  Perfect hand size crack

Donald high on a tricky number, think we all took air time on this one

Donald on some shady Zion slab

Donald, me and Guy at the top of Made to Be Broken, Zion.  Amazing line.

Guy and Donald in Iron Messiah...a highlight route

A route called headache...3 pitches of brilliant climbing in Zion

Guy Seconding the first pitch of Shuan's Buttress.  Haaard warm up!

Donald shuffling up Castleton Tower
Spartan Slab
As Alan hadn't been climbing all year he was keen to get back out today.  Linda was happy with yesterday but liked the sound of the Coffin Stone for some sun bathing whilst we climbed Spartan Slab.  Alan was a little nervous about climbing a VS 4c but made it too the top without too many stresses.  It was too easy to have a good day, the weather was perfect, the place was so peaceful (except when Alan belched), the company was great and the climbing is brilliant.  Today was the first time I have been to the slabs this year, I wonder if I can squeeze another trip there before the winter..



Tower Ridge
It's great to be back in Scotland after a little while away and today I was back on Ben Nevis.  Tower Ridge was a long ambition for Linda and finally she put it too sleep.  Alan has been up Tower Ridge before, both summer and winter but is always keen for any mountain route.  A traditional climber...not like these modern climbers who are always climbing indoors.  I like his style.  Linda coped well in the damp conditions with only a couple of French words and a few touch downs with her knees.  Other than that it was a clean ascent.  We even burned off some military folk on the way.





Blast in Wales
I have just been down in Wales for a spot of climbing as I had some work cancelled.  It was a bit of a blessing in disguise as it was fantastic weather.  I met up with Donald for the first two days for a few classics which I have never done before.  First day we went to Tremadog.  I have only really worked here, only on two other occasions have I done any personal climbing.  So we went to Craig Pant Ifan warmed up on the hardest E1 I have ever done...Barbarian!  Brutal!  Then went onto the hardest E2 I have ever done...Pinchusion!  Also brutal!  Donald then led up Falcon (E1 5b) which to be fair was no pushover!  Despite the time we were keen for another route so we climbed Valor (E2 5c).  This turned out to be reasonable for the grade I thought.  I dont know if I was just being weak but all the routes today felt haaard!

Abbing into Rhoscolyn
Day 2, Donald and I went down to Rhoscolyn.  A crag I have not visited and it was brilliant.  A stroll along the top was the closest I had been a few years ago.  We warmed up with Donald leading up The Wild Rover (E1 5b) and then I dispatched the amazing classic The Sun (E3 5c).  Aptly named route as it was beating down on us all day.  After this great line we then climbed The Mask of Red Death (E3 5c) which was a great route with 2 nice cruxy pitches.  Temps were still high so lots of chalk was used but it didn't take anything away from the brilliant climbing.  It was a brilliant day and plenty to come back to.

Me on Centrefold
Day 3 was climbing with Dave.  We were keen for some Gogarth action as I haven't been here much and Dave had a good route in mind.  The route may well have been in the hottest place in Wales.  It was baking on Red Walls, the abseil in was hot work!  Dave dispatched Heart of Gold (E5 6a) as it is a little above my leading grade but was fantastic to second.  Amazing climbing and never desperate (I did have a top rope remember!).  The gear was fiddly (for Dave) so if i had led it I would have got pumped out of my mind and definitely fallen off.  A brilliant day on an amazing crag.
Dave on Jub-Jub bird
Dave on Heart of Gold

Day 4 and everyone was psyched.  Dave, Donald and I all headed back to Rhoscolyn where we all had our routes in mind.  Donald had a sore ankle so didnt want to lead so I started off on a HVS called Fanfare to warm us up.  I then led up the classic line of Centrefold (E3 5c).  What an amazing route.  Well protected and wild situation, well good fun!  Obviously Dave wasn't pumped so he amazingly dispatched The Jub-Jub bird (E6 6b) whilst Donald and I were in awe.  When he topped out Donald and I had a raised eyebrow smile to each other and got psyched.  I was amazed I managed to hold on through the steep ground, power screaming my way through and eventually arriving at the resting ledge...the skin of my teeth.  An amazing day and one of the best I have had in Wales.  Ace company, ace climbing, ace location and such a good laugh.

Dave preparing for the pumpy bit on Jub-Jub bird